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Ts-o^kiess of the 



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My Venerable Father, 
HENRY DAVIS, 

WHO IN HIS EIGHTY-SECOND YEAR 

IS STILL 

THE ARDENT SPORTSMAN 

FROM WHOM I EARLY LEARNED TO LOVE 

THE ROD AND GUN, 

THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED 

AS A 

SLIGHT EXPRESSION OF THE FILIAL AFFECTION 

OF THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE. 



INDFUL of the time and patience required in find- 
ing out a very little about this picturesque island 
before setting out for its distant shores, and of 
the uncertainty which surrounded every move- 
ment after the start was made, as well as the unnecessary ex- 
pense incurred for want of a reliable itinerary, we conceived 
the idea of furnishing in compact form just the information 
our party was most anxious to secure, and only obtained at 
an exorbitant price, and after repeated disappointments. 

Our historical notes were largely gathered from an excellent 
little work entitled "Newfoundland as it is in 1894," by the 
acknowledged historian of the Island, Eev. M. Harvey, of St. 
John's, whose appended letter explains itself : 

St. John's, N. F., December 10th, 1894. 
Dear Doctor Davis : — I am very much pleased to learn that yon intend 
publishing an account of yonr experiences in Newfoundland. That is what 
we want — to make the country known. You are heartily welcome to use 
my book in any way you please, and to any extent. 

Sincerely yours, 

M. HARVEY. 

Most of the illustrations of the trip were made from photo- 
graphs taken in the field by the author; those showing the speci- 
mens are by Mr. B. Frank Saylor, of Lancaster. The heads 
were mounted by Messrs. A. C. Wood, of Painted Post, New 
York, and George Flick, of Lancaster. A glance at the illus- 
trations themselves is sufficient to testify to the faithful work 
of all parties engaged upon subjects and pictures. 

Careful daily notes were taken, and are the basis of the 
stoiy of the hunt, which is rather understated than overdrawn. 
If any brother hunter has a doubt of this he has only to profit 
by our experience and try it for himself. If this little work 
shall encourage other brain workers to find rest and healthful 
recreation in this interesting region, our effort will not have 
been in vain, and their pleasure will be the best reward of 

The Author. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I.— Introduction 9 

Outings a Necessity to Brain Workers — "Can't Afford It " — How 
to Eaise the Wind — Transmute Smoke into Gold — Consolidate the 
' ' Days Off ' ' and have Something to Show for Them — Longer 
Life and More in It. 

CHAPTER II. — Physical Features op Newfoundland 17 

Its Geographical Position — Comparative Size — Form — Coast As- 
pect — The Interior — Mountain Chains — Rivers — Lakes — Ponds. 



CHAPTER III. — Fauna and Flora op the Island 26 

Fauna: Caribou or Reindeer — Its Migrations — Bear, Wolves and 
Smaller Animals — The Newfoundland Dog — His Degeneracy. 
Birds — Ptarmigan — Flora: Forests of the Gander, Exploits and 
Humber River Districts — Timber and Lumber Operations — Berry- 
bearing Plants. 

CHAPTER IV.— The Fisheries 33 

Abundance of Trout and Salmon — "No Fish " Except the Cod in 
Native Parlance — Codfish the Staple Export — Volume of the 
Business — A Permanent Industry — Arctic Current Slime Feeds 
Small Fishes, They Feed the Cod, the Cod Feeds Man— Seal 
Fisheries — Slaughter of the ' ' Harps ' ' — The Sealing Gun — Dis- 
Distance Measured by "Gunshot " — Salmon — Herring — Lobster. 

CHAPTER V. — Agriculture in Newfoundland 44 

The Soil Neglected — False Representations as to its Value — Delay 
in Development of Interior — The Geological Survey Sets Things 
Right — Fertile River Valleys — Farm Products in 1891 — Domestic 
Animals. 

CHAPTER VI.— Mineral Resources 47 

The First Mines — Geological Distribution of the Copper Ores. 
Lead Ore — Gypsum and Marbles — Iron Pyrites Mine on Pilley's 
Island — Asbestos — Coal Areas — Petroleum. 

CHAPTER VII. — Government and Finances 55 

Mode of Government — Constitution — Powers of the Governor. 
The Legislature — The Supreme Court — -Central District Court. 
Quarter Sessions — Magistrates — Failure in Administration — Com- 
mercial and Financial Slavery — A Gloomy View — From Boom, 
to Crash — The Outlook — Their Hope and Prayer. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VIII.— Education 64 

Academies — Colleges — Pupil Teachers — London University 
Centre — Jubilee Scholarship — Council of Higher Education. 

CHAPTER IX.— Transportation 68 

Eoads unknown to Early Settlers — Selfish Policy of the Mother 
Country — Fences and Chimneys Prohibited — Reform begins in 
1813— First Eoad in 1825— Eoacl Grant in 1832— Eoad Build- 
ing leads to Discovery of Minerals — Visions of Railways Loom- 
ing up — Sir William Whiteway's Scheme — First Eailway Con- 
tract in 1881 — First Sod Cut — In the Hands of a Receiver. 
Change of Government and Eailway Extension — Sir William 
Again at the Helm — A New Survey — -Northern and Western 
Eailway — Eailway Extension means more Common Eoads — Mail 
by Eailway — Eoute of Eailway — Newfoundland no Longer 
an Island. 

CHAPTER X.— The Aborigines 84 

The Beothiks, or "Red Indians" — Their Condition when Dis- 
covered — A Powerful and Warlike People — A Change comes over 
Their Dreams — Their Decadence — The Race Extinct — A Melan- 
choly Find — The First White Man to Sight Newfoundland. 
White Men Land on the Island — From Eighteen to Two Hundred 
Thousand. 

CHAPTER XI . — Preparations for the Trip 91 

Too Many Caribou in Mr. Holbertson's Article — Our Friend Goes 
to New York and Returns with Pupils Dilated — "Richard Le 
Buffe, Hall's Bay, Notre Dame Bay, N. P."— The Cree Stove 
as Amended — Cooking Utensils, etc., packed in Stove — Bag- 
gage Restrictions — What We Carried — The Medicine Chest — Guns 
and Ammunition — The Protean Tent. 

CHAPTER XII.— From New York to St. John's 105 

How to get to Newfoundland — Red Cross Line — The Silvia 
and Portia — Time Table and Rates of Fare — No Duty and Twenty 
Feet for Baggage — Marching Orders — Mistake No. 1 — On Board 
the Portia — Off to the North — Halifax — Fog off Cape Eace — Away 
to St. John's. 

CHAPTER XIII.— The Capital and Its Sights 114 

At St. John's — The Stars and Strips Raised on Our Hotel — A 
Hospitable City — Mistake No. 2 — Game Laws of Newfoundland. 
The Stipendiary Magistrate — The License — Purchasing Supplies. 
Eight Men for Twenty Days — Two Dollars a Day — "Dry." 
Packing for Cache — Mistake No. 3 — Rubber "the only Wear." 
Seeing the City — The Narrows — A Land-locked Harbor — The City. 
Relative Distances — The Museum — The Cathedral — Parliament 
House — Quidi Vidi. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



CHAPTER XIV.— Off for the Hunt 137 

Northward 240 Miles More — Arrival at Pilley's Island — Down 
Hall's Bay in the Nipkin — Mistake No. 4 — Hotel Le Buffe. 
The Guide and His Family — Forward to West Pond — Big Marsh. 
' ' Grub, ' ' or Tea and Tobacco — Our Cabin. 

CHAPTER XV.— Record of the Hunt 147 

The Cabin — Furniture — Thirty-seven Caribou Seen Though Rain- 
ing the First Day — The "Lookouts" — The Doctor's Blind — Fresh 
Meat Plentiful — "Indian Jim" — We Begin to Select Repre- 
sentative Heads — The Kid's Red Letter Day — "Kep" Kills 
the Wrong Deer — William Paul, the Micmac, and Family — Cur- 
ing the Specimens — Killing at Twenty Feet — Kep's Red Letter 
Day— Battle of the Stags— The "King"— The Doctor Makes a 
Long Shot, But Gets Broken Antlers — The "Emperor" — Our 
Quota Nearly Filled — Preparing Trophies for Transportation. 
"Exhibition " Stag— Bear Tracks— Back to Salt Water— No Mail 
from Home — How to Pack Specimens — At Pilley's Island Again. 
We want to Go Home — " Able Seamen " — Mr. Kepler Collars the 
Traps at St. John's While we Go on to Boston and Home — Habits 
of the Caribou — The Micmac Indians — Conclusoin. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

1. St. John's the Capital 18 

2. Entrance to Salvage Harbor 20 

3. Grand Fall of the Exploits 22 

4. Scene on Grand Lake 23 

5. S. S. Avalon Taking Pyrities Ore at Pilley's Island 25 

6. White ground Caribou moss upon which they feed in the absence of 

snow 27 

7. Black Caribou moss as it occurs on tree trunks and branches winter 

food when snow is deep 28 

8. Ptarmigan or Willow Grouse in mottled coat fall of year 30 

9. Harvest time on the banks 35 

10. Curing Cod at Harbor Briton 37 

11. Harp Seal less than fourteen days old with sealing gun 40 

12. Leading tickels, a sample coast town 45 

13. Section of settlement at Pilley's Island Pyrities mine 50 

14. The Cree Stove, which as improved, makes the best camp stove known 95 

15. Carry-all with carrying strap attached 98 

16. Author's convenient tool case 100 



8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

17. The Hall combination rifle and shotgun 102 

18. The Comstock one-pole Protean tent 104 

19. S. S. Portia, at her dock, Halifax, Nova Scotia Ill 

20. License $100.00 and 100 cents 121 

21. An old view of St. John's 126 

22. Fort Amherst 128 

23. St. John's burnt district after fire of 1892 .' 129 

24. The Catholic Cathedral 132 

25. Church of England Cathedral 132 

26. Parliament House 134 

27. Government House 134 

28. Quidi Vidi 135 

29. Two old native salts 138 

30. Hotel Le Buffe, Hall's Bay 141 

31. Our native carriers and guide 144 

32. Our Cabin on the Big Marsh 146 

33. " The Doctor's Blind " 150 

34. "Indian Jim" .' 153 

35. The "Kid's" Trophies of the Hunt 158 

36. Win. Paul— Micmac Indian 162 

37. Win. Paul'sSister 163 

38. Battered Bullets 169 

39. Kepler and the King 175 

40. The King 177 

41. Le Buffe and the Emperor 186 

42. The Feet of the Emperor 187 

43. The Author and His First Prize 188 

44. Leaving Grandfather's Lookout 190 

45. The Exhibition Stag 193 

46. Kepler 's Specimens 195 

47. Arriving at the Foot of West Pond 196 

48. Hugging the South Shore of West Pond in a Storm 198 

49. Stuck on the Eocks at " Devil's Elbow " 198 

50. Curing Hides and Heads at Le Buffe' s Storehouse 201 

51. The Silvia Waiting in Pilley's Island Harbor 204 

52. Coast of Labrador as seen from Ship in Straits of Belle Isle 206 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTION. 




Outings a Necessity to Brain Workers — " Can't Afford It " — 
How to Eaise the Wind — Transmute Smoke into Gold — 
Consolidate your " Days off," and Have Something to 
Show for Them — Longer Life and More in It. 

HILE the forests and fauna of the North 
American continent steadily decrease from 
year to year, the army of "outers" and so- 
called sportsmen increases still more rapidly — from 
Presidents occupying the highest office in the gift of 
the people, to farmers' sons — through all the learned 
professions and tradespeople — rounding up with the 
u pot" or market hunter who kills both in and out of 
season, whenever and wherever an opportunity offers. 
For the past twenty years it has been the author's 
custom to take an outing of from four to six weeks 
every year; and for various reasons he has pitched 
his tent or built his cabin or lean-to in many sections 
of our great country. In all of these delightful trips 

2 (9) 



10 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

he lias been accompanied by from one to three boon 
companions, and the localities visited have ranged 
from the interior of Newfoundland in the north to the 
sand-dunes and palmetto swamps washed by the warm 
waters of the Gulf in the south, and westward to the 
shores of the placid Pacific. 

As these pilgrimages have extended into seventeen 
States and Territories and the Dominion of Canada, 
he has learned much from practical experience with 
regard to the haunts and habits of our native game 
and fishes — from the ungainly moose, noble elk and 
caribou, to the diminutive chipmunk, and from the 
Silver King to the sprightly sunfish. The note-book 
and camera have always been close companions, and 
as Time's wheels roll on they afford much pleasure, 
in recalling to mind many incidents of our sports 
afield. 

Born and reared as he was among the mountains of 
central Pennsylvania, where half a century ago game 
was plentiful, and where, under the tutelage of his 
now venerable father — who is yet an ardent sports- 
man, though in his eighty-second year — he learned 
the use of the rod and gun at a very tender age. Is 
it any wonder, then, that when the sap begins to fall 
and the leaves to change color in the autumn, he be- 
comes restless under the yoke of arduous professional 



HINTS TO BRAIN-WORKERS. 11 

duties, and anxious to seek "the habitat of fin, fur 
and feather" — there to break that fatal strain on the 
nervous system from the daily routine of work and 
worry which has hurried so many good men to pre- 
mature graves. 

HINTS TO BRAIN-WORKERS. 

If brain-workers as a class would take less "ner- 
vines," clubs and banquets, and stick to three square 
meals a day of well-cooked, healthful food, with an 
outing of from four to six weeks out of the fifty-two, 
the country at large would be benefited, and we 
would have better lawyers, doctors and divines, 
brighter students and more successful merchants. 

It would be improper in the introduction to this 
narrative to dwell at length upon the importance of 
out-door sports to brain-workers, and indeed to all 
whose pursuits require them to draw upon nerve force, 
especially in-cloors, day in and out, like automata. 
The unanimous verdict is stereotyped and familiar to 
all that "all work and no play makes Jack a dull 
boy." 

"Yes," said a friend since my return, "I would en- 
joy an outing to Newfoundland to the fullest extent, 
and would be benefited in many ways. I, too, love 
the rippling brook, the majestic river, real land- 



12 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

scapes, towering mountains, the pure bracing atmos- 
phere, and to float on the ocean waves ; but alas ! I 
cannot afford such an outing. It is not ' too rich for 
my blood,' but for my purse — there's the rub. I get 
just that far, and the barrier is so great that, crest- 
fallen, I give up in despair, and take a day off here 
and there. Three or four times during the summer I 
go to the river for a day's fishing for bass, and as often 
I run down to the beach, spending one or two days at 
a time there. This, with an occasional shoot with the 
club at inanimate targets, makes up about all the re- 
creation I can afford, unless you can put me on a plan 
by which I can take a better outing — conscious as I 
am of the fact that the ' day at a time ' outing is of 
very little benefit, inasmuch as I must work all the 
harder to make up for the day or two of temporary 
absence." Knowing my friend's income, habits, home 
life and inclinations, as well as his oft-expressed desire 
to accompany me on one of my annual outings, I was 
not long in obtaining his permission to be inter- 
viewed, and assured of correct replies to such ques- 
tions as I might ask, with a view of his "raising the 
wind," and enabling him to take an outing from 
which he could derive some permanent benefit. 

"Ready? Here goes! How many extra or unne- 
cessary meals do you take and pay for at the club or 



TEANSMUTE SMOKE INTO GOLD. 13 

restaurant during the course of a year, and what do 
they cost?" 

"At a low estimate fifty, and at a cost of not less 
than seventy-five cents each." 

" Fifty meals at seventy-five cents each equal 
$37.50. Do you smoke, and if so what?" 

"Yes, I smoke four ten-cent cigars a day." 

"Well, as a rule, the difference between a ten-cent 
cigar and one for five cents, as they are found in the 
market, is simply the difference in the price. If you 
must smoke four cigars a day, cast about and save 
twenty cents a day, or seventy-three dollars a year, 
by smoking a good five-cent cigar. Or, better still, 
one dozen Creme Gambier French clay pipes will cost 
fifty cents; six cents will purchase sufficient rubber 
tubing to tip the stems ; one pound of Vindex or Seal 
of North Carolina smoking tobacco will fill your pipe 
four times a day for forty days, and ten pounds will 
last you a year, at an expense of about five dollars 
and fifty-five cents, saving on the cigar-smoking at 
forty cents a day $140.45, or if you buy them at 
wholesale, say $100.00 on this one 'extra.' And by 
using either of these brands of smoking tobacco you 
will have a milder, sweeter smoke than you can pos- 
sibly obtain from the general run of cigars, and with 
vastly less enervating effect on the general health; 



14 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

besides, you escape the dangers lurking in the small 
end of the cigar (unless you use a smoker). 

"Now, you say you take a day off about four times 
a summer to go bass-fishing. On an average, what 
does it cost you on one of those trips? " 

"Well, railroad fare or horse hire, boatman, bait, 
etc., about $5.00 a day, or $20.00 a year.' 7 

"And four times in the season you run down to the 
seashore, which takes two days each trip, or eight 
days in all. What do those trips cost?" 

"Well, about $15.00 each, or $60.00 for the year." 

"Now, my friend, I know you take a glass of 
whiskey occasionally, and that you take your beer in 
the evening. Give me some idea of what you expend 
for drinks for self and friends." 

"Well, I will frankly say that I kept a memoran- 
dum once for several months, and was astonished to 
find that I was paying out on an average fifty cents a 
day, or about $180.00 a year, for my drink habit." 

" Unless you are very sure that you are much bene- 
fited by this outlay, you would do well to consider the 
propriety of investing the same amount in some other 
enterprise, and I would suggest that it be added to 
the outing fund. 

"This is not all; you inform me that you are a 
member of a gun club. How often do you shoot 



CONSOLIDATE YOUR "DAYS OFF." 15 

with it, and on an average how much does each shoot 
cost you?" 

"I shoot, I presume, on an average, about ten times 
a year, and after I pay for shells and incidentals, in- 
cluding losses in races in which the other fellow hits 
oftener than I do, say five dollars, or $50.00 a year." 

"Let's see what this all amounts to: $37.50 for 
extra meals during the year; $100.00 for smoking; 
$20.00 for fishing; $60.00 for trips to the shore; 
$180.00 for drinks, and $50.00 for the shooting club 
— making a total of $447.50, or nearly $1.25 for each 
day in the year. This is the way money goes for that 
for which we have nothing to show. I have been 
there, and as you see, know just how it is. I also 
know that from $250.00 to $300.00, if properly ex- 
pended, will defray all the expenses of a grand outing 
of from six weeks to two months to any point in the 
United States, Canada or Newfoundland, and with all 
the advantages and comforts of first-class travel, leav- 
ing a balance for extras and some trophies of the 
chase which money could not purchase, and which 
are ever a source of pleasure and instruction as speci- 
mens of Natural History, and positive evidence of 
one's prowess and skill with the gun. 

"Now, my friend, you see where the money comes 
from which pays the expenses of my outings. You 



16 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

drop on an average $1.25 a day in having what is 
generally considered to be a good time, and in what 
the boys call 'sowing their wild oats.' Try dropping 
80 cents into your outing fund, and at the end of the 
year you will have the comfortable sum of $292.00, 
out of which you can get more solid fun and grand 
sport in the Island of Newfoundland than ever you 
dreamed of, and you will still have forty-five cents a 
day for creature comforts — which is found to be ample 
for a goodly number of the outing fraternity, and is 
as much and even more than thousands of good, in- 
dustrious citizens earn." 

It is to be hoped that the reader will not be led to 
think that the author is posing as a reformer, from 
this prelude to the description of an outing which for 
variety and satisfactory results eclipsed any among 
the many in years gone by. At the same time, it does 
none of us any harm to have our little shortcomings 
alluded to, and especially where experience has proven 
the correctness of the criticism ; for there is scarcely 
any doubt that many of those who peruse these pages 
will recognize the picture in this introduction, and if 
but few do as the author has long since done — change 
front — the battle may last longer, but the outcome 
will be more satisfactory, and certainly the outings 
will be more numerous and beneficial. 



CHAPTER II. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES OF XEWFOUNDLA^D. 

Its Geographical Position — Comparative Size — Form — Coast 
Aspect — The Interior — Mountain Chains — Kivers — Lakes 
and Ponds — Bays. 



. ■ : : •■ *1± ■ • . ■ 



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AVING endeavored to convince the reader 
of the \ T alue, even necessity, of an occasional 
outing to the prolongation and enjoyment of 
life, he is now to be made acquainted with the scene 
of our last, and in many respects most successful ex- 
periment in that line — the Island of Newfoundland. 

The world in general outside of this, the tenth in 
size of the islands of the world, knows but little of it ; 
and if graduates of high schools and academies w r ere 
to be required to tell all they know r about it the an- 
swer would be limited to its geographical position, 
number of square miles, something about the banks, 
codfish, seals, snow, ice and fog ; and perhaps inform 
you that the capital is, or was, St. John's. 

Newfoundland is England's oldest colony, and lies 
off the east coast of North America, and directly 
across the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Its southwestern 

(17) 



18 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



extremity approaches within 50 miles of Cape Bre- 
ton, while its most easterly projection is but 1640 
miles from Valentia, on the coast of Ireland. It is 
situated between 46° 36' 50" and 51° 39' north lati- 
tude, and between 52° 37' and 59° 24' 50" west longi- 
tude. Its greatest length, from Cape Ray to Cape 



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ST. JOHN'S, THE CAPITAL. 



Norman, is 317 miles ; its greatest breadth, from Cape 
Spear to Cape Anguille, 316 miles ; and its total 
area about 42,000 square miles. The best idea of its 
extent is obtainable by comparison with other coun- 
tries with which we are familiar. For example, it is 
almost as large as the State of New York, twice the 
size of Nova Scotia, one-third larger than New Bruns- 



THE COAST. 19 

wick, one-sixth larger than Ireland, three times as 
large as Holland, and twice as large as Denmark. Its 
figure roughly approaches an equilateral triangle. 
(See map.) Two large peninsulas project from the 
main body of the island : one of these (Petit Nord) 
points northwards, and is long and narrow ; the other 
is the peninsula of Avalon, pointing southeast, and 
almost severed from the mainland — the connection 
being a narrow isthmus, in one place but three miles 
wide. On the eastern side of the peninsula of AA^alon 
is situated St. John's, the capital. 

THE COAST. 

As seen from the ocean, the shores of Newfound- 
land furnish a picture of rock-bound cliffs rising from 
200 to 500 feet in height, broken by numerous mag- 
nificent bays, running in some instances 80 to 90 
miles inland and throwing out smaller arms in all 
directions, so that though the circumference of the 
island from headland to headland is about 1000 miles, 
the actual length of coast line is more than twice as 
much. These bays frequently present varied scenes 
of beauty, being studded with small islands, having 
their shores clad in many instances with dark green 
forests to the water's edge, while in others the rocks 
are barren or moss-covered. 



20 



CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



THE INTERIOR. 

The part of the island nearest the sea consists of a 
hilly country, with eminences of no very great eleva- 
tion. The interior proper consists as a whole of an 




ENTRANCE TO SALVAGE HARBOR. 



elevated undulating plateau, traversed here and there 
by ranges of low hills ; the surface being diversified 
with valleys, woods, fresh- water lakes and ponds, and 
thousands of acres of marshes. All the great hill 
ranges take a northeasterly and southwesterly direc- 
tion, the highest land occurring along the western and 



THE ELVERS. 21 

southern shores. The principal mountain chain is 
the Long Range, which extends along the western 
side of the island for nearly its entire length, and has 
peaks more than 2,000 feet high. Parallel to this, but 
nearer the coast, is the Cape Anguille range. The 
peninsula of Avalon is very hilly, but the highest 
summits do not extend 1,500 feet. 



RIVERS. 

The largest river is the Exploits, which is 200 miles 
in length, with a drainage area of between 3,000 and 
4,000 square miles. It has its source in the extreme 
southwestern angle of the island, and flows in a north- 
easterly direction through Red Indian Lake, discharg- 
ing its waters into the Bay of Exploits Notre Dame. 
The Grand Fall of the Exploits is nineteen miles up 
the river. The first plunge is fifty feet, the stream 
being separated on the verge of the precipice by a 
small island, and at the bottom pent up in a narrow 
tortuous gorge, hemmed in by craggy cliffs. The 
valley through which the river flows contains large 
areas of fertile land, much of Avhich is covered with 
pine forests containing timber of large size. 

The next river in size is the Humber, which has its 
source twenty miles inland from Bonne Bay and after 
a very circuitous route discharges its waters into Deer 



22 



CAE1B0U SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



Lake, thence flowing into the Bay of Islands. It 
drains an area of 2,000 square miles. 

The Gander river is the next in size, and rises near 
the southern coast, flowing through Gander Lake, dis- 
charging into Gander Bay on the east coast, and has 
a drainage area of 2,500 square miles. 




GRAND FALL OF THE EXPLOITS. 



FRESH WATER LAKES AND PONDS. 

These form one of the most remarkable physical 
features of this unique region, and occupy nearly one- 
third of the whole surface. The largest is Grand 
Lake, 56 miles in length and covering an area of 196 
square miles. It contains an island 22 miles in length 



THE BAYS. 23 

and 5 miles in width. Red Indian Lake is 37 miles 
long and 64 square miles in area. Gander Lake and 
Deer Lake occupy 33 and 24 square miles respectively. 
Sandy Lake, Victoria, Hinds, Terra Nova and George 
IV. Lakes rank next in size. The shores of many of 
these lakes, as well as the fertile valleys through 




SCENE ON GRAND LAKE. 



which the rivers flow, are as yet absolute solitudes,- 
the very existence of which was until recently almost 
unknown. 



THE BAYS. 



Of the many bays already alluded to, the following 
deserve special mention : 



24 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

St. Mary's Bay is 25 miles wide at its mouth and 35 
miles long, with two great arms, Salmonier and Col- 
inet, both of which stretch still farther into the inte- 
rior. Placentia Bay is 55 miles wide and 90 miles 
long. Fortune Bay is 25 miles wide and 70 in length, 
with numerous arms, the most important of which are 
Bay D'Espoir, Hermitage Bay and Connaigre Bay. 

At the entrance of Fortune Bay are the two islands 
of St. Pierre and Miquelon, ceded by treaty to France 
for the shelter of her fishermen, and now all that re- 
mains to France of the vast possessions she once held 
in North America, and this she holds to the great 
detriment of the Newfoundlanders. 

Around Bay St. George, which is 40 miles wide at 
its mouth, with a good harbor at its head, are some of 
the most fertile valleys on the island, with fine forests 
of timber and coal-fields of large area. Bay of Islands 
has three fine arms running 20 miles inland, and here 
is located an extensive herring fishery. 

Notre Dame Bay is 50 miles wide at its mouth, and 
runs inland 80 miles. On its shores are famous cop- 
per mines which have been worked with marked suc- 
cess, as well as the Pilley's Island Pyrites mine, which 
is now being worked at a great profit to the syndicate 
owning the plant. Pilley's Island is in the mouth of 
Notre Dame Bay and the point from which an arm 



THE BAYS 



25 



known as Hall Bay extends 25 niiles into the interior 
in a southwesterly direction. Our expedition left the 
ship at this point, and reached the AVliite Hills from, 
the head of Hall's Bav. 




-. S. AYALOX TAKIXG PYEITE5 OEE AT PILLEY S ISLAXD. 



CHAPTER III. 

Fauna of the Islands — Caribou or Reindeer — Its Migrations — 
Bear, Wolves and Smaller Animals — The Newfoundland 
Dog — His Degeneracy — Birds — The Ptarmigan — Flora — 
Forests of the Gander — Exploits and Humber River Dis- 
tricts — Timber and Lumber Operations — Berry-bearing 
Plants. 

HE FAUNA of Newfoundland will be next 
briefly touched upon. Among the indigen- 
ous animals, the Woodland (Rangifer Cari- 
bou) Caribou or Reindeer holds a conspicuous place, 
as the island contains more of these noble animals 
than any other country in the world. They migrate 
regularly to the southeastern and northwestern por- 
tions of the island, passing the winter months in the 
south, where "browse" is plentiful and the siioav not 
too deep to prevent them from obtaining the moss 
and lichens on the lower grounds and upon which 
they principally feed the year round. In March they 
begin their spring migration to the mountains and 
barrens of the northwest where, in May and June, 
they bring forth their young. As soon as the forests 
of October begin to nip the vegetation, they begin to 

(26) 



ITS MIGEA.TION. 



27 



graze toward the south; hence from the middle of 
September until the same time in November is the 
best time for stalking, when at times they can be seen 




WHITE GROUND CARIBOU MOSS UPON WHICH THEY PEED IN THE 
ABSENCE OP SNOW. 



on the marshes in great herds, containing frequently 
more than a hundred. The time of migration de- 
pends somewhat on the frosts and snows in the north, 
as an early snow will cause the deer to start ; but if 



28 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



the weather becomes warm they call a halt and re- 
main in the neighborhood where the warm weather 
sets in, and at times they graze northward, resuming 




BLACK CARIBOU MOSS AS IT OCCURS ON TREE TRUNKS AND 
BRANCHES. WINTER FOOD WHEN SNOW IS DEEP. 



THE BIRDS. 29 

their southward journey when the weather becomes 
colder. 

There are bears, wolves and other animals, in addi- 
tion to the caribou, which is the only member of the 
deer family on the island. The black bear and wolf 
are abundant in the interior, especially the former, 
and in addition the black, grey, silver and red fox ; 
also beaver, otter, Arctic hare, North American hare, 
weasel, bat, rat, mouse and muskrat. The famous 
Newfoundland dog is still to be met with, though 
good specimens are few and far between, and those 
expecting to make a purchase had better consult one 
of the many kennels in the United States, where 
there is an opportunity of making a selection. The 
Newfoundland dog of to-day is a degenerate mongrel, 
good for nothing except to drag a heavy clog during 
the summer, and the sledge during the winter months. 
There are no frogs, toads, snakes, lizards or any other 
reptiles on the island. 

BIRDS. 

It is estimated that there are 300 species of birds in 
the island, most of which are migratory. Among 
them are the eagle, hawk, owl, woodpecker, swallow, 
kingfisher, six species of flycatchers and a like num- 
ber of thrushes, warblers, finches, ravens and jays. 



;o 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



The ptarmigan, or willow grouse, is very abundant 
and is the finest game bird on the island. They are 
about the size of the pheasant or ruffled grouse of the 




FEMALE. MALE. 

PTARMIGAN OK WILLOW GROUSE IN MOTTLED COAT FALL OF YEAR. 



States, though not such rapid flyers, and furnish fine 
sport, and their flesh is all that could be wished for — 
juicy, sweet and tender. In summer they are of a 
reddish brown, but in winter almost white, with 



THE FLOEA. 31 

feathers to their toe nails. The rock ptarmigan is 
found in the highest and most barren portions of the 
island, though not in such great numbers as the wil- 
low grouse or ptarmigan, which is found in all parts. 

FLORA. 

The pine, spruce, birch, juniper and larch of the 
forests in the interior furnish ample material for a 
large lumber trade, as well as for shipbuilding pur- 
poses. The white pine grows from a height of from 
seventy to eighty feet in some sections, and attains a 
diameter of from three to four feet. The mountain 
ash, balsam poplar and aspen thrive well, and ever- 
greens are in endless variety. 

The Geological Report of the Gander River district 
estimates the available pine limits here at 850 square 
miles, including the valley of the Gambo and Triton 
River and the country along the south side of the 
lake and across to Freshwater Bay. Most, if not all, 
the pine here referred to is of the white variety — 
Pinus strobus — probably the most valuable species for 
the manufacture of lumber. The same authority says 
that between the Grand Falls and Badger Brook on 
both sides of the Exploits River pine nourishes lux- 
uriantly ; these reaches also display a fine growth of 
other varieties of timber, and at some points, and es- 



32 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

pecially above the forks of Sandy Brook, white birch 
attains a very large size. 

The southern side of the Exploits presents an un- 
broken dense forest in a series of gentle undulations 
for many miles, and from the Victoria River to the 
head of Red Indian Lake the country is well timbered 
throughout. 

The valley of the Humber is richly wooded, and here 
lumbering operations have been carried on for many 
years on an extensive scale. Here Tamarack or juni- 
per, yellow birch, white pine and spruce grow in pro- 
fusion, and to a size very little inferior if not equal to 
the best that is now brought to market at Gaspe and 
other parts of the Lower Province of Canada. 

Berry-bearing plants are found distributed over the 
whole of the island and in great variety, among which 
may be mentioned strawberries, raspberries, capillaire, 
partridge berries, bakeapple and "hurtz" or blueber- 
ries, which can be gathered in the immediate vicinity 
of every settlement. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE FISHERIES. 

Abundance of Trout and Salmon — " No Fish" except the Cod, 
in Native Parlance — Codfish the Staple Export — Volume 
of the Business — A Permanent Industry — Arctic Current 
slime feeds the small fishes, they feed the Cod, the Cod feeds 
Man — Seal Fisheries — Slaughter of the " Harps " — The 
Sealing Gun — Distance measured by " Gunshots " — Salmon 
— Herring — Lobster. 




ERHAPS there is no place on this earth 
where fishes are as plentiful as in and around 
Newfoundland. In every rivulet, river, lake* 
pond or puddle of water, no matter where found, trout 
and salmon abound, and in season the angler cannot 
fail to get a strike and is ofttimes rewarded with six 
to seven pound "speckled beauties," and salmon 
weighing as much as fifteen pounds. These fish, 
coming out of the pure cold spring water with rock 
bottom, are of superior flavor ; but fine as they are, 
the natives do not regard them as fish, as the following 
incident will illustrate. On our way into the interior, 
part of our route was over a lovely pond five miles 
long by about three-fourths of a mile wide. We had 

(33) 



34 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

made an early start and left the foot of the pond just 
as day was breaking. We had not proceeded far when 
the writer thought he could occasionally see the water 
break with a splash in close proximity to the canoe. 
Seated as he was in the bow, he turned to the native 
who was handling the paddle in the stern, and in- 
quired whether there were any fish in the pond. 
" Fish? No sir, — no fish, sir." Presently, when about 
half way up the pond, and just as the sun was peeping 
over the eastern horizon, he saw not six feet from the 
boAV of the canoe a magnificent salmon rise to the 
surface, and with a swish of his tail, disappear to the 
depths. Again he turned to his friend with the re- 
mark, "Daddy, did I understand you to say that there 
were no fish in this pond?" "No Fish, sir; no fish." 
"Yes, but — I beg your pardon — I a moment ago 
saw what I took to be a twelve or fifteen pound sal- 
mon break the water not six feet from the bow of the 
canoe." " Oh, that was a salmon. There are plenty 
of trout and salmon in all these waters, but no fish, 
sir. You know we don't count anything as fish in 
these parts but codfish, sir." 

CODFISH. 

The fisheries of Newfoundland are the grand staple 
industry of the country, and about four-fifths of the 



VOLUME OF THE BUSINESS. 35 

entire exports. The cod fisheries alone greatly exceed 
those of any other country in the world. The annual 
average export of this valuable fish is about 1,350,000 
quintals of 112 pounds weight. The Dominion of 
Canada exports an average of 450,000 quintals and 




HARVEST TIME ON THE BANKS. 



Norway 751,000 quintals. The whole Norwegian 
catch averages 50,000,000 codfish, while the aggregate 
annual catch of cod in North American waters, includ- 
ing the fisheries on the banks by French, American, 
Canadian and Newfoundland fishermen is estimated at 
3,700,000 quintals. The number of codfish captured 



36 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

to make up this weight of dried fish, allowing fifty to 
a quintal, would be 185,000,000; and yet this enor- 
mous annual draft on these extensive fishing grounds 
has been going on for centuries without exhausting 
the supply. 

A PERMANENT INDUSTRY. 

The Arctic Current, which washes the shores of 
Labrador and Newfoundland, is laden with food on 
which the cod lives and thrives, and brings with it a 
never-failing supply for its sustenance. So far from 
being unfavorable to the production of life, the Arctic 
seas and the great rivers which they send forth are 
swarming with minute forms of life, constituting in 
many places "a living mass, a vast ocean of living 
slime." Swarms of minute crustaceans, annelids, and 
mollusca feed on this slime and in their turn become 
food for the larger marine animals even up to the 
giant whale ; and curiously enough, this ocean slime 
is most abundant in the coldest waters, and especially 
in the neighborhood of ice-fields and icebergs. Thus 
the great current in the ocean, which rushes out of 
Baffin Bay, carrying on its bosom myriads of icebergs 
and washing the shores of Labrador and Newfound- 
land, is swarming with these minute forms of marine 
life from the minute crustacean and the crab and 
prawn together, with the molluscous animals and star- 



A PERMANENT INDUSTRY. 



37 



fish in profusion, which contribute to the support of 
the great schools of cod which find their home there. 
Astounding are these great processes of nature ! The 
vast battalions of icebergs, the terror of mariners, 
sailing past these shores and often anchoring on Lab- 
rador and in the bays of Newfoundland, bring with 




CURING COD AT HARBOR BRITON. 



them the slime food on which the almost microscopic 
crustaceans live. These in turn furnish food for the 
caplin, the squid and the herring, which with multi- 
tudes of other species are food for the voracious cod. 
When the cod is assimilated by man this great circle is 
complete : the big fishes devour the little fishes, and we 
have another evidence of the "survival of the fittest." 



38 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

So long as the Arctic Current continues to flow, the 
banks and the waters about the island of Newfound- 
land will teem with cod. For nearly 40(7 years, cod 
fishing has been prosecuted regularly, and has sup- 
plied the chief export of the country. The fish begin 
to appear on the coast about the first of June, at 
which time they leave the deep water for the warmer 
and shallower waters near shore to deposit their 
spawn. Their approach is heralded by the beautiful 
trim little caplin, a fish about seven inches long and 
which comes in schools sufficient to give the water 
the appearance of a squirming mass, filling every 
nook and corner in the bays, fiords, arms and inter- 
stices of the rock-bound coast. The cod follow in 
their wake and gorge themselves with the little fish, 
of which they are very fond, so they furnish the 
choicest bait. In about six weeks the caplin disap- 
pear and their place is taken by the squid about the 
first of August. They are followed by the herring, 
which remain until about the middle or end of Oc- 
tober, when the cod fishing season ends. 

THE SEAL FISHING. 

Next to the cod fishing in value comes that of the 
seal, which has been prosecuted for about ninety 
years only — the natives being so industriously en- 



THE SEAL FISHING. 39 

gaged iii cod fishing that they neglected the oleagi- 
nous treasures to be obtained from the seal, which the 
ice-fields yearly brought within their reach; so the 
great herds were left to bring forth their young amid 
the icy solitudes, undisturbed by the murderous gun, 
club and knife of the seal hunters. To-day, however, 
things are different, and the nurseries of countless 
mother seals are transformed into slaughter-fields, red 
with the blood of their murdered darlings, slain in 
their icy cradles. The young seals are born on the 
ice which the Arctic Current carries past the shores 
from the fifteenth to the twentieth of February, and 
until they are two weeks old they are as white as 
snow and called "harps." When ten days old they 
begin to change color and become in a short time of a 
dark brown ; and as they grow very rapidly and yield 
a much finer quality of oil than the old ones, the ob- 
ject of the hunter is to reach them in their babyhood, 
while yet fed by their mother's milk, and when they 
are powerless to escape. So rapid is their growth 
that by the sixteenth of March they are in the best. 
condition to be taken. By the first of April they be- 
gin to leave the ice and take to the water, and can be 
no longer so easily captured. When a vessel reaches 
an ice-field, where the seals are visible, the men 
eagerly bound upon the ice, and the work of destruc- 



40 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

tiori begins. These innocent animals are usually 
found around a water-hole or along the shore of an 
ice-field — hundreds of them, like soldiers in a row, 
with their pretty heads extending over the ice anx- 
iously looking for their mothers. The hunter man- 
ages to get into a position at a point about sixty yards 




HARP SEAL LESS THAN FOURTEEN DAYS OLD WITH SEALING GUN. 

from one end of the line of heads and opens fire with 
his great sealing gun ; and as these guns are used in 
killing reindeer for his winter's meat, a description of 
them will be given in another chapter. 

As the distance at which this remarkable gun will 
do effective work in seal hunting has been forever set- 



THE SEAL FISHING. 41 

tied, it is used as a standard among the natives, and 
should you meet one on land or ice and make in- 
quiry concerning the distance to a certain point the 
answer would be one, two, three or four "gunshots, 
sir" — meaning 60, 120, 180 or 240 yards, as the case 
might be. These guns, loaded with from four to six 
inches of powder and a handful of about No. 3 buck- 
shot, make a formidable weapon, and as a rule kick 
backward almost as much as forward; and as they 
frequently jump overboard into the water when fired 
from the small boats, it is necessary to have them se- 
curely fastened to one end of a stout rope, the other 
end being attached to the boat, so that the gun can be 
retrieved after the shot is fired, if it has attempted an 
escape to the briny deep. Of later years the killing is 
mostly done with a club, one end of which is armed 
with a gaff or hook — a light blow on the nose being 
sufficient to stun the animal. Instantly the scalping 
knife, which is ever ready in the belt, is brought into 
use, and in a few moments the carcass is quivering on 
the ice, stripped of its skin, to which the fat adheres. 
The pelts are then dragged to the ship over the ice 
and taken to port, where the skins and fat are sepa- 
rated, the former being salted for exportation, and the 
latter manufactured into oil at either St. John's or 
Harbour Grace, where all the seal oil is manufactured. 

4 



42 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

SALMON INDUSTKY. 

Nowhere are there any finer salmon streams than 
those of Newfoundland; but as no proper measures 
have been taken for their preservation, the average 
export for the past ten years has scarcely exceeded 
$100,000.00. Barring the rivers and brooks with nets 
at the times when the fish are ascending to spawn, 
constructing weirs, traps and dams, sweeping the pools 
in the rivers with seine-nets, and night-spearing, have 
been carried on for generations by ignorant and reck- 
less persons, goaded on by the greed of immediate 
gain; so that in the streams the salmon are almost 
exterminated, though in the lakes they are abundant, 
take the hook well, and in flavor compare favorably 
with those of any country. There is, however, a 
prospect that through the efforts of a Fish Commis- 
sion, which has lately been established, the streams 
will be opened up and the salmon will return to their 
old haunts. 

HERRING. 

Herring are plentiful and of the finest quality ; but 
as the cod is or has been the staple stock in trade, they 
too have been sadly neglected. Had the herring 
fishery been prosecuted with as much vigor as the cod, 
proper care bestowed on the curing and packing, and 



LOBSTER. 43 

the whole placed under proper regulations, it might 
to-day approach the cod fishery in value. The chief 
seats of herring fishing are Fortune, Placehti&j St. 
George's, and Bay of Islands, and the average annual 
value is about as follows: Export, $358,359.00; sold 
to French and Americans for bait, $150,000.00; and 
allowing 73,000 barrels for home consumption at $3.00 
per barrel, gives us a grand total of $727,359.00. 

LOBSTER. 

According to the last census (1891) there were then 
340 lobster factories, employing 4,807 persons. The 
report of the Department of Fisheries for 1893 states 
that the total number of lobster traps amounted to 
87,720, and that there were caught 5,054,462 lobsters, 
from which number 26,214 cases of lobsters (each 
case containing forty-eight one-pound cans) were 
packed. These returns apply only to licensed facto- 
ries ; besides there were a large number of unlicensed 
factories on the French shore. The total value from 
1888 to 1892, inclusive, was $2,067,408.00. 




CHAPTER V. 

AGRICULTURE IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

The Soil Neglected — False Eepresentations as to its Value — 
Delay in Development of Interior — The Geological Survey 
sets Things Eight — Fertile Eiver Valleys — Farm Products 
in 1891 — Domestic Animals. 

JVEN up to a comparatively recent period, 
the inhabitants were so busily engaged in 
| the fishing industry that no attention what- 
ever was paid to the cultivation of the soil, and those 
who most profited by the arduous labors of the fisher- 
men, in order to keep them huddled along the rugged 
coast, assiduously taught them to regard the interior 
of the island as a hopelessly barren waste, unfit for 
the occupancy of man. That this is not the case has 
been clearly demonstrated by the geological survey. 
According to its reports, there are in the valleys on the 
weastern coast 1,320 square miles "perfectly capable 
of being reclaimed and converted into fairly produc- 
tive grazing and arable land," and these valleys are as a 

(44) 



AGRICULTURE IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



45 




LEADING TICKELS, A SAMPLE COAST TOWN. 



rule well wooded. In the great valleys of the Gander, 
Gambo, Terra Nova and Exploits there are 3,320 
square miles of land suitable for farming, the soil be^ 
ing of a rich loam, composed of alluvial deposit and de- 
cayed vegetable matter. There are also many smaller 
fertile tracts around the heads of bays and lakes, and 
along the smaller streams, making in all not less than 
5,000 square miles of land suitable for cultivation. 
The census of 1891 showed that only 179,215 acres 
were actually occupied, as follows : 64,494 acres of im- 
proved land, 20,524 acres in pasture, 21,813 acres in 
gardens, and 6,244 acres of improved land unoccupied. 



46 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

FARM PRODUCTS FOR 1891. 

The farm products for 1891 are shown by the statis- 
tical reports to amount to : 

491 bushels wheat, @ $1 .00 $491 

12,900 bushels oats, @ .50 6,450 

36,032 tous hay, @ $20.00 720,640 

481,024 barrels potatoes, @ $1.00 481,024 

60,235 barrels turnips, @ $1 .00 60,235 

86,411 barrels other roots, @ $1.00 86,411 

401,716 pounds butter, @ .20 83,343 

154,021 pounds wool, @ .20 30,804 

Milk and vegetables 96,000 

Total...... $1,562,398 

3 

DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

If to this aggregate be added the value of the 
calves, sheep, swine, horses, goats and fowls raised 
during the same year, in round numbers $732,000.00, 
we have a grand total of $2,295,398.00 for the agricul- 
tural products of the island for the year 1891. The 
fact must be taken into consideration that this pro- 
duction has not been from the interior, but from a 
comparatively narrow belt in close proximity to the 
coast. It is thus conclusively shown what the agri- 
cultural possibilities of this land of "cod-fish and fog" 
would be, if the fertile valleys of the interior were 
placed under proper cultivation. 




CHAPTER VI. 

MINERAL RESOURCES. 

The First Mines — Geological Distribution of the Copper Ores 
— Lead Ore — Gj^psum and Marbles — Iron Pyrites Mine on 
Pilley's Island — Asbestos — Coal Areas — Petroleum. 

HILE the fisheries, lumber and agricultural 
products are large and remunerative, the 
mining resources of the island are destined 
to eclipse all others in the near future. 

THE FIRST MINES. 

It was not until 1857, when Mr. Smith McKay first 
discovered copper near a small fishing hamlet called 
Tilt Cove, in Notre Dame Bay, that any attention was 
paid to prospecting for minerals. Here a mine was 
opened in 1864 under the management of Messrs. 
C. F. Bennett and McKay. During the next fifteen 
years Tilt Cove mine yielded over 50,000 tons of cop- 
per ore, having a market value of $1,572,154, and 
nickel ore worth $32,740. This mine to-day employs 
an average of about 500 miners. In 1875 another 
copper mine was opened at Bett's Cove, a distance of 
ten or twelve miles south of Tilt Cove. In four years . 

(47) 



48 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

the quantity of ore exported from it amounted to 
122,556 tons, with a value of $2,982,836.00. In 1878 
a still richer deposit was opened up at Little Bay, near 
Bett's Cove. Up to 1879 the total quantity of ores 
exported from all these mines reached a value of 
$4,629,889.00, or nearly a million pounds sterling. 
This placed Newfoundland, though still in its kilts as 
a mining country, sixth among the copper producing 
countries of the world. 

GEOLOGICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE COPPER ORES. 

The existence of the serpentine rocks in the island 
is a matter of the utmost importance, as they belong 
to what in Canadian geology is known as the Quebec 
Group of the Lower Silurian series, and the middle or 
Lauzon division of that series. That division, accord- 
ing to Sir William Logan, "is the metalliferous zone 
of the Lower Silurian in North America, and rich in 
copper ores, chiefly as interstratified cupriferous slates, 
and is accompanied by silver, gold, nickel and 
chromium ores." This Lauzon division is the one 
which is developed in Newfoundland, and in which 
all the copper mines are located. The Government 
Geological Survey's report gives the following truthful 
estimate of these serpentine mineral-bearing rocks of 
the island, which is sufficient proof of the existence of 



GEOGRAPHICAL DISTEIBITTION OF OEES. 49 

inexhaustible bodies of valuable minerals, extending 

over an area of 5,097 square miles : 

Between Hare and Pistolet Bays 230 sq. mi. 

North from Bonne Bay 350 

South from Hare Bay 175 

South from Bonne Bay 150 

South from Bay of Islands 182 

Surrounding Notre Dame Bay 1 ,400 

Gander Lake and River Country 2,310 

Bay d'Est Biver 300 

Total 5,097 sq. mi. 

While these remarks are with special reference to 
the copper ores it must not be forgotten that in the 
metalliferous zone just referred to others, such as as- 
bestos, nickel, iron pyrites, lead, and iron ore are 
found, and give promise of profitable development, to 
which special reference will be made further on. 

LEAD ORE. 

Lead ore was first discovered at La Manche, at the 
northeastern extremity of Placentia Bay, where for 
several years workings have been carried on. This 
ore is rich, assaying 82 per cent, of metallic lead, as 
well as a small percentage of silver. 

GYPSUM AND MARBLES. 

The Geological Survey's report states that "gypsum 
is distributed more profusely and in greater volume 



50 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



in the carboniferous districts than in any part of the 
continent of North America of the same extent." In 
St. George's Bay and Codroy the bodies of gypsum 
are immense. Marbles also of every shade of color 
are found in large quantities on both the eastern and 
western shores ; granite of the first quality, building 
stones, whetstones, stones suitable for grindstones, 
limestone, and the finest roofing slate it has been the 
writer's pleasure to look upon. 

IRON PYRITES MINE ON PILLEY's ISLAND. 

Our notes of the mineral resources of Newfoundland 
would be very deficient were not special reference 




SECTION OF THE SETTLEMENT AT PILLEY's ISLAND PYRITES MINE. 



ASBESTOS. 51 

made to this great mine, in whose beautiful little har- 
bor our expedition landed on Sunday, October 14, 
1894, on our journey to the White Hills. This mine 
has been worked for the last ten years, and has been 
and is at present one of the most valuable in the 
island. The quality of the pyrites is said to be the 
finest in the world, containing 52 per cent, of sulphur 
and 42 per cent, of iron, from which is manufactured 
the finest steel. The ore is mostly shipped to the 
United States, where it is used in the manufacture of 
sulphuric acid, copperas and fertilizers, and the de- 
mand is steadily increasing ; and as there is another 
deposit adjoining the present mine, should the latter 
pinch out, the additional lode would furnish an 
abundance for years to come. The value of iron 
pyrites exported to the United States from 1886 to 
the end of 1893, according to the Customs Report, 
reaches a total value of $759,451.00. The same report 
shows an aggregate value of $10,799,086.00 of all 
minerals exported from the island, from 1864 to the 
end of 1893. 

ASBESTOS. 

This valuable mineral has been found amongst the 
serpentine deposits in many places. It occurs in 
strings or threads of a fine, silky texture, traversing 



52 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

the ' masses of serpentine in all directions. On the 
eastern coast of Port-au-Port, rising out of the sea to a 
nearly vertical height of 1,800 feet, is a mountain 
known as Bluff Head. This mountain determines the 
southern boundary of the serpentine. It was here 
that asbestos first attracted attention. Bluff Head 
was long known to the fishermen of the neighborhood 
as "Cotton Rock," and the Hon. Philip Cleary, of 
St. John's, was the first to equip a small expedition, 
four years ago, to engage in the work of prospecting, 
which resulted in the finding of this valuable sub- 
stance. 

COAL AREAS. 

The principal carboniferous region of the country is 
St. George's Bay, where coal was discovered about 
fifty years ago by Mr. J. B. Jukes, who was for many 
years Director of the Irish Geological Survey, and 
who spent twelve months on the island and found a 
coal seam three feet in thickness, containing cannel 
coal of excellent quality, cropping out of the right 
bank of the Middle Barachois Brook, on the south 
side of St. George's Bay. His estimate of this small 
portion of the coal basin of Newfoundland was 
twenty-five miles wide by ten miles in length. In 
1873 another seam was discovered by Mr. J. P. How- 



COAL AEEAS. 53 

ley, F. G. S., at present Director of the Geological 
Survey, on Robinson's Brook, four feet in thickness, 
very bituminous coking coal, emitting much gas under 
combustion, and burning freely. He also found an- 
other seam in the same section, seventeen inches 
thick. In 1889 a still more thorough examination 
of this coal district was made under the direction of 
Mr. Howley. Referring to the report of that year, it 
shows that altogether fourteen seams of coal, of a 
varying thickness, from a few inches up to six feet, 
were uncovered on one small brook ; three on another 
two miles distant, and four on a third brook, still 
farther eastward some two and one-half miles. These 
with some smaller ones aggregate a thickness of 
twenty-seven feet of coal in the section, which is re- 
peated by being brought to the surface again on the 
other side of the synclinal trough. From the above 
condensed statement from official facts it will be 
readily seen that there is not the possibility of a 
doubt that coal is abundant on the island ; and fur- 
ther, the reader will be surprised to learn that not- 
withstanding the presence of these rich and extensive 
coal fields, none of them have yet been worked, and 
they import from Cape Breton and Prince Edward's 
Island all the coal they use at an annual expense 
of about $250,000.00. 



54 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

PETROLEUM. 

As was to be expected in presence of all this coal, 
indications of petroleum in paying quantity have been 
observed, and will be investigated and utilized as soon 
as the people recover from the present financial 
troubles. The writer, being somewhat familiar with 
surface indications of petroleum in the great oil fields 
of Pennsylvania, noticed in the White Hills region 
strong surface signs, including the presence of the well 
known pebble rocks, and has not the least doubt but 
it is only a question of time when Newfoundland will 
be a coal oil producing county. 



CHAPTER VII. 

GOVERNMENT AND FINANCES. 

Mode of Government — Constitution — Powers of the Governor 
—The Legislature — The Supreme Court — Central District 
Court — Quarter Sessions — Failure in Administration — 
Commercial and Financial Slavery— A Gloomy View — 
From Boom to Crash — The Outlook — Their Hope and 
Prayer. 



REPRESENTATIVE Government was 




granted to Newfoundland in 1832. In 
1855, after oft-repeated applications by the 
people, what is known as "Responsible Government" 
was ceded to the colony, which is simply the applica- 
tion of the principles of the British constitution to the 
island, and provides that the country should be gov- 
erned according to the well understood wishes of the 
people." The party in power, i. e., having the major- 
ity in the Legislature, disposes of the principal offices 
under the government, and also elects the Executive 
Council. The House of Assembly is elected by the 
people, and the Legislative Council is nominated by 
"the Governor in Council." 

(55) 



56 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

CONSTITUTION. 

The form of government consists of a Governor 
who is appointed by the Crown of England, and is 
paid a salary of $12,000 a year by the Colony; an 
Executive Council consisting of seven members chosen 
by the majority in the Legislature, at a salary of 
$120.00 per session; a Legislative Council of fifteen 
members, nominated by the Governor in Council and 
holding office for life at a salary of $120.00 per ses- 
sion ; and a House of Assembly at present consisting 
of thirty-six members, elected by the votes of the peo-. 
pie every four years. If they reside in St. John's they 
receive a salary of $194.00 per session ; if resident 
elsewhere, $291.00. The President receives $240.00 
and the Speaker of the House of Assembly receives 
$1,000.00 per session. 

POWERS OF THE GOVERNOR. 

The Governor is Commander-in-Chief over the col- 
ony, and has the power in the Queen's name to com- 
mute sentences of courts of justice ; to summon, open, 
prorogue, and on occasions dissolve the local Parlia- 
ment ; to give or withhold assent to, or reserve for the 
Royal consideration, all bills which have passed both 
Chambers. 



CENTRAL DISTRICT COURT. 57 

THE LEGISLATURE. 

The Legislature must meet once a year, and is 
usually summoned "for the dispatch of business" in 
the month of February. 

SUPREME COURT. 

A Supreme Court was instituted in 1826 by the 
promulgation of a Royal Charter. To it and to the 
magistrates belong the correct interpretation and 
proper enforcement of the laws. It is composed of a 
Chief Justice and two Assistant Judges ; it holds two 
terms or sessions each year, on May 20th and Novem- 
ber 20th. There are also circuits of the Supreme 
Court held in the northern, southern and western dis- 
tricts of the island at such times and places as may be 
fixed by proclamation of the Governor. These are 
presided over by the Chief Justice or one of the As- 
sistant Judges, in rotation. The yearly salary of the 
Chief Justice is $5,000.00, and of each Assistant Judge 
$4,000.00; they hold their appointments for life. 

CENTRAL DISTRICT COURT. 

The Central District Court is a Court of Records, 
held in the capital, St. John's, for the adjudication of 
civil causes, and sits whenever business requires. 
There are two Judges appointed by the Governor in 

5 



58 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Council, and a Sheriff for each judicial district, who 
is also appointed by the Governor. 

QUARTER SESSIONS. 

. Courts of general and quarter sessions are held in 
such places as may be determined by the proclama- 
tion of the Governor, and are presided over by stipen- 
diary magistrates or justices of the peace. 

This completes and rounds out the system, which is 
well enough in form, but as everything depends upon 
administration, the best forms fail when worked in 
the interest of others than the governed. 

COMMERCIAL AND FINANCIAL SLAVERY. 

From the foregoing sketch of the governmental 
forms, it is easy to see that the enjoyment of even the 
measure of liberty ostensibly allowed to the people is 
at the mercy of the administration, and at last of the 
Crown. The real power is wielded from the other 
side of the water. How it was used in the past we 
have already shown ; the Newfoundlanders were sheep 
in the hands of the British shearers. The native or 
resident population (when at length permitted to 
reside) caught fish, and their masters took and sold 
the catch, allowing the fishermen enough to keep 
them alive. Of course in the world of to-day that 



A GLOOMY VIEW. 59 

could not last among people of Saxon blood; hence 
reform, relaxation of repressive law, "responsible gov- 
ernment." But the situation is changed more in 
appearance than in reality. Modern methods have 
changed what was robbery into various forms of 
swindling. Where a people are thus held in commer- 
cial slavery, morality in business and politics will not 
touch high-water mark ; where government is admin- 
istered with the ulterior object of enriching the few at 
the expense of the many, it surprises no thoughtful 
mind that the lesson of example is learned, and those 
who are preyed upon too often turn to prey upon one 
another. The recent financial history of Newfound- 
land is a case in point. Since we came home, in 
December, 1894, the island experienced a financial 
cyclone whose wreckage will leave marks for years. 

A GLOOMY VIEW. 

One of their writers puts it strongly under date of 
January 30th, 1895: "Newfoundland to-day is a 
country without banks, without currency, without 
credit. Its commerce and trade are shattered, its 
population reduced to hopeless misery." Making due 
allowance for over-statement natural to too close a 
view-point, there remains only too much underlying 
fact. The difficulty about the French fishery rights 



60 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

we have mentioned. France protected her fishermen 
by a bounty, which drove the Newfoundlanders out 
of European ports; efforts to secure protection from 
the home government failed, because it seemed to the 
British capitalist that his interest lay in putting and 
keeping the fishermen at the mercy of a few merchants 
— and there they are, under the "truck system," a 
relic of ancient barbarism, just a hundred per cent, 
worse than the "grub stake" of the miners in the 
United States. The merchants, having skinned the 
fishermen, are subjected to the same process at the 
hands of their masters ; it seems they have been losing 
money for ten years past, in the vain struggle with 
French bounty-fed competition. Meanwhile the pro- 
fessional politician comes to the front, fomenting strife 
between factions while he gnaws all the marrow from 
the bone of contention. Scarcity of currency added 
to the difficulty. 

FROM BOOM TO CRASH. 

The fire that almost destroyed St. John's in 1892 
put some five million dollars of insurance and relief 
funds in circulation, and thus started a "boom" of 
fictitious prosperity; but this was only superficial, 
and the crisis, inevitable in such conditions, came in 
the winter of '94-' 95. When the two prominent 



THE OUTLOOK. 61 

banks, the Union and Commercial, went to the wall, 
the exposure was simply amazing. The former had 
overdrafts aggregating more than two millions, half of 
it standing against accounts of directors ; the latter 
had overdrawn accounts of the same amount, half to 
directors, one of whom had $657,000. The combined 
capital of the two banks was but $800,000. What 
wonder that the ensuing crash left conditions such as 
described in our quotation above? Verily, the honest 
native Newfoundlander, who creates the wealth of the 
country, has "fallen among thieves!" 

THE OUTLOOK. 

What will be the outcome? No man knows. The 
animus of those who have the ear of the English 
capitalists, and through them of the home govern- 
ment, is well shown in the following from the St. 
John's correspondence of tne New York World: 

"The widespread ruin and mystery that resulted 
need not be dwelt upon. Suffice it to say that it 
crippled the country and beggared its people. The 
people are now getting themselves together again, the 
merchants are, to all intents and purposes, swept 
away, and knowing that they must depend upon 
themselves in future, the fishermen are preparing 
to prosecute their industry with the best resources 



62 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

they have got, and we have faith in the ultimate 
result. 

"It became a matter of great difficulty to obtain 
money to meet the interest on the public debt, due 
December 31, without meeting which we should 
have become insolvent. It was finally secured, at a 
great sacrifice, and then, having breathing space, the 
Government sought the aid of England to guarantee 
interest on a loan to complete our railway, which had 
to be stopped when the crash came. 

" She refused to help us, unless we accepted an un- 
conditional Royal Commission. This our Govern- 
ment would not do, fearing we should be made a 
Crown colony. 

"Then we turned to Canada, which has for twenty- 
five years been tempting us to join the Confederation, 
and sought terms of admission from her. Unaided 
she could not assume the whole burden of our public 
debt, $15,000,000. She would take two-thirds of it, 
and requested England to assume the remainder. 
But again England refused and blocked a second 
avenue of escape for us. 

"This compelled us to adopt the last resort and 
appeal to the liberty-loving and large-hearted people 
of the United States. Colonial Secretary Bond is now 
endeavoring to secure a loan there to enable us to tide 



THEIR HOPE AND PEAYER. 63 

over our difficulties. England's enmity is manifest. 
She is throwing every obstacle in the way to prevent 
our succeeding.. Her object is to prevent us from 
securing help abroad and so compel us to bankrupt on 
June 30, when our next half-yearly interest becomes 
due. Then she will revoke our charter of 'self-govern* 
ment and reduce us to a Crown colony." 



5' 



THEIR HOPE AND PRAYER. 

-.' And this in the end of the nineteenth century, 
under the electric light, at the hands of the Govern- 
ment of Her Majesty, Victoria the Good! Can it be 
wondered at that the islanders are unwilling to trust 
the CroAvn, or even federation into the Dominion, but 
look with laying hope for the great Republic to reach 
northward and take North America from the- St. 
Lawrence to Baffin's Bay under the protection of the 
Stars and Stripes? This feeling was manifest to us in 
the "open sesame" effect of the name of American 
wherever it was heard. To be sure Ave have our 
financial crashes and crises, but we have not }^et been 
reduced to the commercial slavery that has nearly 
crushed our island neighbors. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

EDUCATION. 

Academies: — Colleges — Pupil Teachers — London University- 
Centre — Jubilee Scholarship — Council of Higher Edu- 
cation. 

REVIOUS to the year 1823 no organized 
attention was paid to education in the col- 
ony. The people were poor, and it required 
a hard struggle for daily bread. The settlements 
were small, widely separated, and physical wants were 
too pressing to permit scarcely any attempt at the 
education of the rising generation, and, as a matter of 
fact, they grew up without the first rudiments of 
knowledge outside of their vocation of capturing cod 
and seal. The beginning of common school educa- 
tion dates from 1823, when "The Newfoundland 
School Society" was founded in London by Samuel 
Codner, a Newfoundland merchant. Afterwards its 
name was changed to "The Colonial and Continental 
Church Society." The schools it planted were main- 
tained by the liberality of its members unaided until 
1843, when the Legislature- granted an annual sum of 
$5,100 for the promotion of common school educa- 

(64) 



LONDON UNIVERSITY CENTRE. 65 

tion. In the same year the same body made pro- 
vision for higher education by establishing an acad- 
emy in St. John's. This did not succeed, and was 
abandoned in 1850. In its place three academies 
were founded, on the denominational principle, and 
at a later date a fourth was established. 

COLLEGES. 

These four schools, which are connected respectively 
with the four different religious denominations, have 
expanded, and done much toward the education of 
the people. They are conducted by teachers of abil- 
ity and character, and give excellent training. At 
the present time they are known as the Roman 
Catholic College, Church of England College, Metho- 
dist and Presbyterian Colleges respectively. The two 
last named lost their buildings in the great fire of 
1892, but the Methodist buildings have been restored, 
and are more spacious and better equipped than those 
destroyed. The Presbyterian College has also been 
rebuilt, and now occupies its new building. 

PUPIL TEACHERS LONDON UNIVERSITY CENTRE. 

The training of teachers is one of the important 
features of these colleges. They must pass rigid ex- 
aminations and are graded according to merit before 



66 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

they are permitted to take charge of schools. Students 
are also prepared for the Universities, and St. John's 
has been made a centre of the London University, so 
that pupils can here prepare for and pass the matri- 
culation examinations which admit them to that old 
and honored institution. 

JUBILEE SCHOLARSHIP. 

As a father incentive to those who aspire to higher 
education, "The Newfoundland Jubilee Scholarship" 
has been founded. The Governor in Council appro- 
priates an annual sum of $480.00 for the institution 
of a scholarship in the London' University, to be given 
to the student who shall take the highest percentage 
among competitors in and from the colony at the 
matriculation examinations held in June and January 
of each year. 

COUNCIL OF HIGHER EDUCATION, 

In 1893 an act was passed "to provide for Higher 
Education." This act provides for the appoint- 
ment of a Council to consist of twenty-three mem- 
bers, and makes the Superintendents of Educa- 
tion and Headmasters of Colleges members ex officio. 
The sum of $4,000.00 is appropriated annually to 
carry out the provisions of the act, and the Jubilee 



COUNCIL OF HIGHER EDUCATION. 67 

Scholarship is subject to the regulations of this 
Council. 

The governmental appropriation in 1893 for col- 
leges, grammar and elementary schools, was $151,- 
891.22. Of this amount the common or elementary 
schools received $97,753.15; pupil teachers, $5,610.84; 
encouragement of teachers, $25,297.87; inspectors, 
16,060.00. 

The number of common schools in 1893 was as fol- 
lows: Church of England, 194, with an attendance of 
11,808; Church of Rome, 200, with an attendance of 
10,265; Methodist, 144, with an attendance of 8,465; 
Presbyterian, Congregational and others 10, with an 
attendance of 296- — making a total of 33,834 pupils 
attending the common or elementary schools, which, 
when added to the number of pupils attending the 
different colleges, makes a grand total of 34,557 pupils 
attending schools. 






CHAPTER IX. 

TRANSPORTATION. 

Roads Unknown to Early Settlers — Selfish Policy of Mother 
Country — Fences and Chimneys Prohibited — Reform Be- 
gins in 1813— First Road in 1825— Road Grant in 1832— 
Road Building Leads to Discovery of Minerals — Geological 
Survey — Visions of Railways Looming up — Sir William 
Whiteway's Scheme — First Railway Contract in 1881— 
First Sod Cut — In the Hands of a Receiver — Change of 
Government and Railway Extension — Sir William Again 
at the Helm — A New Survey — Northern and Western 
Railway — Railway Extension Means More Common Roads 
— Mails by Railway — Route of Railway — Newfoundland 
no Longer an Island. 




fctv.r., f , -L-gwr-,- j. ■ ktA 1 ; 



||N no other country whose discovery dates 
back as far as Newfoundland has the mate- 
rial and social advancement of the people 
been so seriously retarded by the want of roads. The 
original settlement of the island took place entirely in 
connection with the fisheries. The gathering of the 
abundant and valuable harvest from the tempestuous 
sea was the only industry attempted or contemplated. 
Around the rock-bound coast, in little secluded coves 
and harbors, the fishermen (chiefly from England, 

(68) 



TEANSPOETATION. 69 

Ireland and Scotland) collected in small hamlets and 
villages, in such localities as were best adapted for 
catching, drying and shipping fish. Thus distributed 
along the coast, they were generally widely separated, 
and intercourse was maintained mostly by sea, or by 
rude paths through the woods and rocks between 
neighboring settlements. Had the clearing and culti- 
vation of the soil been combined with fishing, the 
construction of roads would have become an absolute 
necessity; but the selfish policy established by the 
mother country, at the bidding of the English capital- 
ists who carried on the fisheries, effectively prevented 
colonization. That policy was to keep the island 
solely as a fishing station, in order to train seamen for 
the British navy. All grants of land were prohibited, 
the cultivation of the soil was made a penal offense, 
and for a long time a most vigorous attempt was made 
to make the fishermen migratory by carrying them 
home at the close of each season to return the follow- 
ing summer. In 1790 one of the Governors publicly 
announced that he "was directed not to allow any 
possession as private property to be acknowledged in 
any land Avhatever which is not actually employed in 
fishery." In 1799 Governor Waldegrave ordered 
fences which had been erected, enclosing a piece of 
ground, to be torn down, and prohibited chimneys 



70 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

even in the temporary sheds used for sheltering the 
fishermen. Though the progress of the colony was 
thus prevented and discouraged in every conceivable 
manner, the sturdy pioneers held their ground, or 
rather rocks, on the coast, and increased in numbers 
until in 1813. 

THE DAWN APPEAEED. 

The foolish, cruel and selfish laws were relaxed, and 
grants of land to settlers Avere for the first time per- 
mitted. Agriculture, on a small scale, immediately 
began in close proximity to each settlement. The 
settlers found in a short time that the argument used 
by those who were interested in keeping the country 
unsettled, that the climate and soil were wholly un- 
suited to agriculture, was a malicious falsehood manu- 
factured out of the whole cloth. 

EOAD MAKING BEGINS. 

It was soon found that little progress could be 
made in the cultivation of the soil until roads were 
constructed. The year 1825 was made memorable by 
the building of the first road, nine miles in length, 
from St. John's to Portugal Cove, on the southern 
shore of Conception Bay. On the opposite shore of 
this bay were the thriving towns of Harbour Grace, 



EOAD MAKING BEGINS. 71 

Carbonear and Brigus, the centres of a considerable 
population. By establishing a regular system of 
boats to cross this bay, carrying mails and passengers, 
a route was established by which nearly half the 
population in the country were provided with an im- 
perfect means of communication. 

To Sir Thomas Cochrane, then Governor, belongs 
the distinguished honor of introducing this important 
step in the furtherance of civilization. He also con- 
structed a road to Torbay, a village north of St. 
John's ; and a third along a beautiful valley through 
which flows a small stream falling into St. John's 
harbor at a point now known as Waterford Bridge. 

This beginning of road making took place only 
seventy years ago, but the progress made has been 
most remarkable. Year after year roads radiating 
from St. John's in various directions Avere built, along 
which farms and neat farmhouses soon became visi- 
ble. One of these roads extends first to Topsail on 
Conception Bay, thence to Holyrood, at the head of 
the bay, and further on to Salmonier, St. Mary's and 
Placentia. 

When representative government was established 
in 1832, an annual grant was voted for making and- 
repairing roads and bridges, and of late years over 
$150,000 per annum have been expended for this 



72 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

purpose. The Great Northern Mail road for estab- 
lishing communication with the people of the north- 
ern bays was begun and pushed to completion, and at 
the present writing there are about 1,000 miles of pos- 
tal roads and 2,000 miles of district roads. 

ROAD BUILDING LEADS TO THE DISCOVERY OF MIN- 
ERALS A GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 

As road building necessitated surveys into and 
through the interior, as well as the disturbance of 
the rock and earth in numerous places, it led 
to the discovery of minerals, and finally (in 18G4) to 
the establishment of a most efficient Geological Sur- 
vey. Sir William Logan, the eminent geologist of 
Canada, was applied to, who nominated Mr. Alexan- 
der Murray, who had been his efficient assistant for 
twenty years, to take charge of the work. He prose- 
cuted it for over twenty years, and it has been con- 
tinued with commendable zeal by his able assistant, 
Mr. James Howley, up to the present time. 

VISIONS OF RAILWAYS LOOMING UP. 

Thus, after being a mere fishing station for 250 
years, without farms or roads, the fringe along the 
coast was intersected with public highways, the cul- 
tivation of the soil was making some progress, and 



VISIONS OF RAILWAYS LOOMING UP. 73 

many of sturdy "old salts" were making themselves 
comfortable homes, and while they were braving the 
billows on the banks and their fish were drying on 
the flakes, the fertile ground was growing crops. In- 
stead of reaping the harvest from the sea alone, the 
land also contributed to the support of themselves 
and little ones, and the one avocation interfered but 
little with the other. 

About this time a proposition was made by Mr. 
Sanford Fleming, Engineer-in-Chief of Canadian rail- 
ways, which helped to start the public mind to think- 
ing of the possibility of constructing a railway across 
the island. He published a paper in which he advo- 
cated that the shortest route between America and 
England was across Newfoundland. He suggested a 
fast line of steamers from Valentia, Ireland, to St. 
John's, Newfoundland, carrying only passengers, 
mails and light express goods. Thence he proposed 
to build a railway across the island to St. George's 
Bay, where another swift line of steamers would ply 
to Shippegan, in the Bay of Chaleur, where connec- 
tion with American railways would be obtained. He 
calculated that the ocean passage would not exceed 
four days, and that passengers from London would 
reach New York in seven days. So convincing were 
his arguments that the Newfoundland Legislature ap- 

6 



74 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

propriated a sum of money for a preliminary survey 
which was made in 1875 under the direction of Mr. 
Fleming. Two years then elapsed before any other 
steps were taken. At length, Sir William White- 
way, Premier of the colony, to whom belongs the 
honor, of not only introducing the railway system 
in the face of the most bitter opposition, but of perse- 
veringly carrying it out for more than fourteen years 
as a prominent feature of his policy — undertook to 
grapple with the matter in earnest. His first experi- 
ment was (following the lines drawn by Mr. Fleming) 
to offer an annual subsidy of $120,000.00 and liberal 
land grants along the line to any company that 
would construct and operate a line across the island, 
to be connected by steamers with England on the one 
side, and on the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the other 
with Canadian railways. The imperial government, 
however, refused to sanction this policy on the ground 
that it might be regarded by the French as an in- 
fringement of their fishing rights, which were secured 
by treaty, on the west coast where the terminus would 
be. This project, therefore, had to be abandoned. 

Two more years elapsed, when Sir William con- 
ceived the idea of building a narrow-gauge road suited 
to local requirements, and to be known as the Hall's 
Bay line. The resolutions which he submitted to the 



FIEST EAILWAY CONTRACT. 75 

House of Assembly proposed the construction of a 
road from St. John's, the capital, to Hall's Bay, the 
centre of the mining region, with branches to Har- 
bour Grace and Brigus, the total length of which 
would' be about 340 miles. Such a line would open 
up for settlement the large areas of good lands and 
valuable timber districts already referred to in the 
valleys of the Gambo, Terra Nova, Gander and Ex- 
ploits, and connect the mining region with the capi- 
tal. A joint committee of both houses of the Legis- 
lature was appointed to consider the proposition. 
Their report concluded by recommending the passage 
of an act authorizing a loan of the amount required 
to construct the line, within the limits of one million 
pounds sterling, and in sums not exceeding half a 
million of dollars in any one year. This report was 
adopted by the Legislature by an overwhelming ma- 
jority. Railway commissioners were appointed and 
engineers were employed, and during the summer 
and autumn of 1880 a preliminary survey of the 
southern portion of the proposed line was made, and 
this led to the 

FIRST RAILWAY CONTRACT IN THE COLONY. 

When the Legislature met in 1881 the tender of an 
American syndicate for building the road was ac- 



76 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

cepted. The leading features of the contract were as 
follows: A line of narrow-gauge road (3 feet, 6 inches) 
from St. John's to Hall's Bay, with branches to Brigus 
and Harbour Grace, a distance estimated at 340 
miles; steel rails; a money subsidy of $180,000.00 to 
be paid half-yearly by the Government for thirty-five 
years, conditional on the efficient maintenance and 
operation of the line ; and as each five miles are com- 
pleted and approved, land grants of five thousand 
acres per mile of good land to be secured to the com- 
pany in alternate blocks along the line in quantities 
of one mile in length and eight miles in depth, and if 
good land could not be obtained along the line it was 
to be selected elsewhere. 

FIRST SOD CUT. 

The first sod was turned on August 9th, 1881, and 
by September, 1882, thirty-five miles were completed 
and in running order, one hundred miles were lo- 
cated, and the remainder under survey. By Novem- 
ber, 1884, the line was completed and open for traffic 
between St. John's and Harbour Grace, a distance of 
eighty-three and one-half miles. 

IN THE HANDS OF A RECEIVER. 

Soon after the Newfoundland Railway Company 
failed and all work was stopped. The company 



CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT. 77 

failed to complete their contract and the line passed 
into the hands of a receiver on behalf of certain stock- 
holders in England, and under this arrangement it 
has been satisfactorily operated up to the present 
time. 

CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT AND EXTENSION OF THE 
RAILWAY. 

In 1885 a change of government took place, and 
Sir Robert Thoburn became Premier. Not discour- 
aged by the failure of his predecessors, he and his col- 
leagues in 1886 began the construction of a branch 
twenty-seven miles in length, from Whitbourne Junc- 
tion to Placentia, the old French capital, which they 
completed and opened in 1886. This brought the in- 
habitants in and around Placentia Bay not only in 
touch Avith each other but with St. John's, the capi- 
tal, and proved to be a great benefit to the whole 
southern and western shores of the bay. The loco- 
motive, the great civilizer in all countries, had now 
gotten such a foothold that it mattered not which of 
the political factions got the reins of the government, 
the work of railroad building was sure to proceed. 

The up-country people were still clamoring for 
their section and the northern extension to Hall's 
Bay, the great mining centre, and seven miles of the 
Placentia extension were available for this purpose. 






78 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

The ' government decided that the line should be 
built, and, in 1889, the Legislature passed a Railway 
Extension Act of a liberal character with scarcely a 
dissenting voice, which pledged the Government to 
make a survey of the line to Hall's Bay that same 
year, and to at once begin the construction of the 
road at a rate of not less than twenty-five miles a 
year. Before winter set in some fifteen miles of 
this railroad from Placentia Junction northward 
were built. 

SIR WILLIAM AGAIN AT THE HELM. 

At the November election in 1889, the White way- 
ites again became victorious. Sir William again be- 
came Premier, and soon showed that he had lost none 
of his former confidence in railway extension as a 
means of developing the varied resources of the col- 
ony. In 1890 the Legislature passed an act provid- 
ing for the extension of the line towards Hall's Bay, 
with a branch to Brigus at Clarke's Beach, authoriz- 
ing a loan of $4,500,000.00 and giving the govern- 
ment authority to accept bids and enter into a con- 
tract for the construction of the road. Mr. R. C. 
Reid, of Montreal, Canada, was awarded the contract, 
and in October, 1890, work was begun, which was 
to be completed in five years. 



• NORTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY. 79 

A NEW DISCOVERY. 

In the meantime a survey was made from the val- 
ley of the Exploits to the west coast of the island, or 
what is known as the "French Shore." This line 
passed through the valleys of Deer Lake and Harry's 
Brook. The result was that inasmuch as it passed 
through large areas of rich loamy soil, and tapped a 
portion of the fine Humber valley, famous for its 
good land and fine pine timber, and terminated on the 
French Shore in the Bay of Islands, with its magnifi- 
cent scenery, the government was led to abandon the 
route north to Hall's Bay, and build the road west 
from the Exploits. 

NORTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY. 

A new contract was made with Mr. Reid, by which 
he was to "build, construct and equip a line of rail- 
way commencing at the terminus of the road to be 
constructed under the Northern Railway contract, be- 
ing a point two hundred miles distant from Placentia 
Junction and running by the most desirable and most 
direct route to the northeast end of Gander Lake, 
thence to the northeast end of Deer Lake, and west- 
erly along the north side (afterwards changed to the 
south side) of Deer Lake, and down the Humber 
River, thence by the way of north side of Harry's 



80 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

River,, and thence to Port-aux-Basques." This con- 
tract was signed by both parties on the 16th day of 
May, 1893. 

On the same day another contract was entered into 
with Mr. Reid to operate for ten years the Placentia 
branch railway and also the " Newfoundland North- 
ern and Western," as the new line from Placentia 
Junction to Port-aux-Basques was to be called. This 
contract was quite full and strict; among the many 
provisions included were a sum of $15,600.00 per 
mile ; fee simple land grants as follows : 250,000 acres 
upon completion of the northern line to Exploits, 250,- 
000 acres upon completion of the line to Port-aux- 
Basques, and the balance at the completion ; land to 
be located on each side of the road, and in alternate 
sections of one or two miles in length and eight 
miles deep; and one commendable section of the 
contract stipulates that the daily wages of laborers 
shall not be less than one dollar a day, and payable 
monthly. 

In October, 1890, as per contract, the work was be- 
gun with vigor; at the close of 1891 sixty-five miles 
were completed and operated, and by the fall of 1893 
two hundred miles were completed and trains were 
running between Exploits, Whitbourne and St. 
John's. 



MAILS BY KAILWAY. 81 

EXTENSION OF RAILWAY NECESSITATES ADDITIONAL 
COMMON ROADS. 

In order to connect the settlements on the seacoast 
with the railroad, the public highways became a ne- 
cessity, and these have been mostly surveyed and 
built by the contractor, Mr. Reid, acting under gov- 
ernmental supervision. A good wagon road forty 
miles in length has been built from Trinity to Shoal 
Harbor via Goose Bay, opening Up a large area of 
good land suitable for grazing and agricultural pur- 
poses, and furnishes access to railway facilities for a 
considerable population. Another road ten miles in 
length connects with Indian Arm Bay; while a third 
five miles in length runs from Alexander Bay to the 
railroad near Gambo, and one about forty-four miles 
long from Hall's Bay, connecting four miles west of 
Badger Brook. Roads from Arnold's Cove and Come- 
by-Chance have also been completed. 

MAILS BY RAILWAY. 

The railway now carries nearly all the northern 
mails, which in winter used to be conveyed by cour- 
iers on foot, or with the aid of dogs over the ice and 
snow. Small steamers ply from Shoal Harbor, Ex- 
ploits and Clode Sound around the bays, carrying 
mail and passengers to and from the various settle- 



82 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

ments; and thus both social and material progress 
has been initiated by the iron horse and his satellites, 
the common roads. 

ROUTE OF RAILWAY. 

From Placentia Junction, seven miles from Whit- 
bourne, the new line runs northerly, crossing the isth- 
mus which connects the Peninsula of Avalon with 
the main body of the island, at its narrowest point be- 
ing only three miles wide. On either side of the 
isthmus are the heads of the two great bays of 
Placentia and Trinity. Still following a northerly 
course, the road passes through Terra Nova, Gambo 
and Gander Valleys, and enters the valley of the Ex- 
ploits at Norris' Arm. From this point it turns 
westerly, following up the Exploits valley and cross- 
ing the river at Bishop's Falls, ten miles from its 
mouth, on a magnificent steel bridge, 630 feet in 
length, with granite piers and abutments. From 
Bishop's Falls it crosses over into the valley of the 
Peter's Arm Brook (the Grand Falls being about one 
and one-half miles from the road at the two hundred 
and twenty- second mile from Whitbourne), but returns 
to the Exploits valley again near Rusby Pond at the 
two hundred and twenty-seventh mile from Whit- 
bourne. From thence it follows up the Exploits val- 



ROUTE OF RAILWAY. 83 

ley to Badger Brook, where it leaves the river. From 
Badger Brook it takes a northwesterly route, crossing 
the White Hill Plains, thence down the valley of 
Kitty's Brook to the northeastern end of Grand Lake. 
The course is then along the southern side of Deer 
Lake to Ba}^ of Islands, thence through the valley of 
Harry's Brook to Bay St. George. From this point 
the line passes back of the Anguille range of hills, 
down the valley of the Codroy River to Cape Ray, 
about nine miles distant from Port-aux-Basques, 
which is the terminus of the line. When this road 
is completed it will be five hundred and fifty miles in 
length, from St. John's on the east coast to Port-aux- 
Basque on the west, and from the latter point a short 
sail across the Gulf of St. Lawrence will land passen- 
gers on the continental railway system, and New- 
foundland will almost cease to be an island. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE ABORIGINES. 

Beothiks or "Red Indians" — Their Condition when Dis- 
covered — A Powerful and Warlike People — A Change 
Comes Over their Dreams — Their Decadence — The Eace 
Extinct — A Melancholy Find — The First White Men to 
Sight Newfoundland — White Men Land on the Island — 
From Eighteen to over Two Hundred Thousand. 

HEN the question is asked, Avho were the 
first inhabitants of the island of Newfound- 
land, — to what race of men did they be- 
long, what Avere their appearance and habits, their 
color and modes of living? — the sages of the world 
are not prepared to answer. Recorded history en- 
ables us to go back only to the first appearance of 
European explorers some four hundred years ago, but 
it is barely possible that other races may have pre- 
ceded the 

"red Indians" or beothiks, 
Who were the occupants of the soil when the dar- 
ing voyagers braved the tempestuous Atlantic in their 
frail crafts, and after untold hardships reached the 
seagirt isle, and found it inhabited by a race in all re- 

(84) 



CONDITION OF THE BEOTHIKS. 85 

spects resembling the savage tribes of the North 
American continent, and likely belonging to the same 
stock. The early explorers, thinking they had dis- 
covered the eastern shores of Asia or India, called all 
the inhabitants, both in North and South America, 
"Indians," and from their complexion the northern 
tribes were afterwards called " Red Indians." 

The race found in Newfoundland called themselves 
"Beothiks," which was their tribal name. Their 
features were those of the continental Indians. They 
had straight, jet-black hair, high cheek bones, small 
black eyes, and their skin was copper colored. Their 
habits of life were also similar in many respects ; they 
subsisted by hunting and fishing ; their weapons, wig- 
wams and domestic utensils resembled those of neigh- 
boring tribes. Among learned men who have care- 
fully studied the few relics which have been preserved, 
and the meagre and uncertain vocabularies which 
contain all that remains of their language, there is a 
difference of opinion as to whether they were a branch 
of the widespread and warlike Algonquins, who sus- 
tained themselves and increased in numbers. 

CONDITION OF THE BEOTHIKS WHEN DISCOVERED. 

When Cabot landed on the island, in 1497, the 
Beothiks were a numerous and powerful people, well 



86 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

developed physically, ingenious, of quick intelligence, 
gentle in manners, and inclined to be friendly to the 
pale-faces. The great island, with its abundance of 
wild creatures of many species, and its shores, lakes 
and rivers swarming with fish, was to them a perfect 
paradise. Countless herds of reindeer wandered over 
the marshes in the interior in their migrations, at 
which times their capture was easily accomplished, 
even with the simple devices in the possession of 
these children of the forest. The flesh furnished 
them with their most nutritious food, while from 
their pelts they made the best waterproof leather, ' 
with which they clothed their feet as well as covered 
their wigwams, insuring them against the severity of 
the long winters. These hides, being better adapted 
for making " buckskin," than those of any other of 
the deer family, together with the skins of the beaver, 
wolf and bear, gave them abundant and comfortable 
clothing. They practiced no agriculture, but the wild 
berries in their luxuriant growth supplied them with 
an abundance of vegetable food. 

A CHANGE COMES OVER THE DREAMS OF THE 
BEOTHIKS 

That very ancient principle in nature's laws of the 
survival of the fittest came in force with the appear- 



THE EACE EXTINCT. 87 

ance of the white man and sealed their doom. For 
three hundred years they struggled on, but gradually 
becoming weaker and weaker. For a comparatively 
short time the same old story repeated itself, and 
friendly relations existed between them and the in- 
vaders ; but soon quarrels arose, and deeds of violence 
resulted in savage vengeance. The first rude trap- 
pers, hunters and fishermen as they spread into the 
northern parts of the island were beyond the control 
of law and justice, and little disposed to exercise con- 
ciliation and kindness towards the untutored savages, 
whose presence interfered with their pursuits. The 
poor Beothiks were treated with cruel brutality, and 
for long years were regarded as vermin to be hunted 
down and destroyed without limit, except as to oppor- 
tunity. This led the Indians to fierce, savage retalia- 
tion which ensured their ultimate destruction. 

THE RACE EXTINCT. 

At length the spirit of humanity roused from its 
deep slumber, and from 1760 to 1823 attempts were 
made to conciliate the Indians and save their 
wretched remnant from annihilation; but these ef- 
forts proved to have begun too late. Sad experience 
led them to distrust and hate the white man, and 
they could not respond to approaches of kindness.; 



88 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Forlorn and in despair, the few remaining Beothiks 
retreated to their last refuge at Red Indian Lake, and 
there they died one by one, until not a single living 
representative of this once powerful race remained. 
There is no darker page in the history of North 
America than that which records the fate of the un- 
happy Beothiks. 

A MELANCHOLY FIND. 

In 1828 a final effort was made to open communi- 
cation with the remnant of the tribe Avhich was sup- 
posed to still survive. An expedition was organized 
which penetrated to their last retreat at Red Indian 
Lake. Only their graves and the mouldering re- 
mains of their wigwams were fouud — but no living 
Beothik. The silence of death reigned supreme. 
Fragments of canoes, skin dresses, storehouses, and 
the repositories of their dead were there, but no 
human sound was heard, no smoke from wigwam 
seen. Their campfires were extinguished, and the 
sad record of an extinct race was closed forever. 

THE FIRST WHITE MEN TO SIGHT NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Before closing these brief notes of the early history 
of this country, it might be well to note the fact that 
it is highly probable that the first white men who 



WHITE MEN LAND ON THE ISLAND. 89 

saw the shores of Newfoundland were the Northmen. 
Five hundred years before the time of Cabot these 
bold adventurers, led by Lief, son of Eric the Red, 
sailed from Greenland in search of western lands. 
Newfoundland lay directly in their course, and ac- 
cording to their sagas or books on reaching it they 
gave it the name of "Helluland," or the land of 
naked rocks. The daring sailors passed on, however, 
and made no attempt at forming a settlement. Their 
adventurous voyage, in which they are said to have 
reached Rhode Island, took place in 1001. 

WHITE MEN LAND ON THE ISLAND. 

On the second day of May, 1497, a small caravel 
named the "Matthew," manned by eighteen English 
sailors and commanded by John Cabot, left the port 
of Bristol. Cabot was a Venetian by birth and in the 
service of Henry VII. of England. 

On the twenty-fourth day of June following, hearty 
English cheers greeted the first sight of the Island of 
Newfoundland. Thus by right of discovery it be- 
longed to England ; but it was not until 1583 that the 
formal possession was taken by Sir Humphrey Gilbert 
in the name of Queen Elizabeth. This gallant Eng- 
lish knight had formed the purpose of colonizing the; 
island ; but misfortunes overtook him, and when re- 



90 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

turning to England his vessel the "Golden Hind" and 
all on board sunk beneath the waves of the Atlantic. 
With these few observations, noting but here and 
there a few of the most important events in the his- 
tory of this remarkable island, for many of which Ave 
acknowledge indebtedness to that interesting little 
work by Rev. M. Harvey, of St. John's, entitled 
"Newfoundland as it is in 1894," the author has 
hoped to furnish the reader with an outline of the 
discovery, surface conditions and struggles of the 
white population of the Hind's crew to a population 
at present of over two hundred thousand. 



CHAPTER XI. 

PREPARATIONS FOE THE TRIP. 

Too Many Caribou in Mr. Holbertson's Article — Our Friend 
Goes to New York and Eeturns with Pupils Dilated — 
" Kichard Le Buffe, Hall's Bay, Notre Dame Bay, N. F." 
— The Cree Stove as Amended — Cooking Untensils, etc., 
Packed in Stove — Baggage Bestrictions — What We Car- 
ried — The Medicine Chest — Guns and Ammunition — The 
Protean Tent. 

ITH so much knowledge of the history and 
physical features of the island as we have 
tried to give in the preceding pages, the 
reader who has followed ns thus far is prepared to ac- 
company us "in the spirit and understanding" as we 
now pass to the detailed account of our own personal 
experience in hunting the reindeer among the White 
Hills of Newfoundland. To the hunter who may fol- 
low in our footsteps — and Ave hope he will be num- 
erous — the space devoted to 

PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP 

May be both interesting and useful ; while the tour- 
ist will find something of value, and even the stay-at- 

(91) 




92 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

home reader should not consider the time altogether 
wasted which is given to informing him how the 
"outers" make themselves fairly comfortable under 
circumstances too commonly described by the oppro- 
brious name of hardship. If some be tempted by our 
description to "try it on," our work will not have 
been done in vain. 

None of our fellow-sportsmen know better than 
those who have made frequent excursions to distant 
fields, how much of a task it is to complete the itiner- 
ary; and especially so when the objective point is 
thousands of miles away, and in a country about 
whose history the world at large knows but little, and 
the United States even less. Many letters of inquiry 
had to be written, and the difficulty was to find the 
names and addresses of the proper persons with whom 
to communicate. Fortunately the author noticed a 
communication from the pen of Wakeman Holbert- 
son Avhich appeared in the April number of Harper's 
Weekly, 1892, which read like a fairy tale, describing 
a trip to the White Hills in Newfoundland. The 
Weekly was passed round, read aloud at a smoke, and 
commented on to the fullest extent; and while the 
reputation of Mr. Holbertson for "truth and veracity" 
was not called into question as a special order of busi- 
ness, the grimaces made by some of the hearers as 



OUR FRIEND'S PUPILS DILATED. 93 

Holbertson's story fell upon their ears would have led 
most observers to conclude that the narrative was a 
good one, but it had entirely too many caribou in it. 
It was decided, however, that Mr. A. C. Kepler, with 
whom the writer has shared elbow-room and blanket 
on many a hunt in the wilds during the last twenty 
years, should write Mr. Holbertson for special in- 
formation. This was promptly done, and in due 
course of time a reply came verifying all contained in 
the article and adding still more to it, with a pressing 
invitation to call and see his trophies of the hunt. It 
was not long before friend Kepler ostensibly had busi- 
ness in New York, but it is supposed that the business 
part of that trip was to see Holbertson's heads and 
horns. 

OUR FRIEND'S PUPILS DILATED. 

Kepler came back, his pupils as large as a cat's on 
a dark night, in the dark of the moon, and chatter- 
ing like a magpie. The whole story was confirmed, 
and the fall of 1894 was decided upon as the time 
when our pilgrimage was to be made. So the pre- 
liminaries were arranged, and the first step assigned 
the writer was to open communication with the guide 
so highly recommended by Mr. Holbertson, whose 
address Ave give in large type : 



94 cakibou shooting in newfoundland. 

Richard LeBuffe, 
Hall's Bay, P. 0. Wolf Cove, Notre Dame Bay, 

N. F. 

No time was lost in addressing a letter containing 
many questions, and engaging his services for the 
opening of the season of 1894. After weary weeks of 
waiting, a letter came bearing the picture of a seal on 
the stamp, post-marked, "Hall's Bay, Newfound- 
land." It was short but sweet, and while it did not 
contain all the information asked, he accepted service 
on the following terms: Self and canoes, $3.00 per 
day; four carriers at $1.50 per day each and found; 
instructions to land at Pilley's Island ; charter steam 
launch to head of Hall's- Bay, where guide lives (25 
miles) ; march three miles to foot of West Pond ; 
from foot of pond to head of same, five miles in 
canoes ; march thirteen miles more or less to log tilt 
on Big Marsh in the White Hills country — in all 
forty-six miles or more from Pilley's Island to main 
camp. 

Further correspondence elicited the fact that the 
tilt was constructed of logs chinked with moss, slop- 
ing roof of birch bark and a smoke hole, and no way 
of getting a stove nearer than the head of Hall's Bay, 
except by carrying it on the backs of men. 



THE CEEE STOVE. 95 

All this information suggested the importance of 
economizing in both weight and bulk, in both per- 
sonal baggage and supplies. LeBufFe could furnish 
nothing but his service, that of native carriers, canoes, 
the log tilt, and all the caribou, ptarmigan and fish 
our hearts could wish for. 

We were also informed that for a party of three or 
four men four carriers would be required, one of 
whom would, in addition to packing a good load in 
and out, act as cook for the party while in camp. 
From past experience we had learned that if we were 




THE CKEE STOVE, WHICH, AS IMPROVED, MAKES THE BEST CAMP 
STOVE KNOWN. 

to be assured of any comfort in camp it would be ne- 
cessary to take a stove with us, as we had played the 
smoke-hole racket on many occasions and were not 
particularly partial to it. 

The writer was the possessor of a D. W. Cree camp 
stove, manufactured, in Griggsville, Ills. No better 
camp stove has been devised; but the one on hand 
had a cast-iron top, and was both too heavy and too 



96 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

long to be packed on the back of a man. Permission 
was obtained from Mr. Cree, who is a gentleman 
sportsman, to have made by our local mechanics a 
stove after his pattern with modifications to suit our 
wants. The result was just what we wanted, and the 
stove proved to be a great comfort as a substitute for 
the smoke-hole in the log tilt on the Big Marsh. It 
was twenty-six inches long, thirteen inches high and 
thirteen inches wide, and made of Russian sheet-iron ; 
top of same material, with two holes covered with 
sheet-iron lids, in the centre of which was a loose ring. 
Fire door of the same kind and at the same place as 
in the Cree stove ; the oven, instead of being perma- 
nently fixed in position, slid into place on two strong 
angle-irons, and when not in use could be removed at 
will, when wood twenty-four inches long could be used. 
Nine twelve-inch-long joints of galvanized iron tele- 
scope pipe, with damper, completed the lightest and 
best stove of the kind ever used, as far as the writer 
has been able to ascertain. Weight, with the nine 
feet of pipe, bake-pan, lids, pipe-collar and baker 
packed inside, but sixteen pounds. In addition to 
the stove adjustments it contained when packed for 
the trip the following 

COOKING UTENSILS AND SUNDRIES: 

1 coffee pot, i dozen tin plates, 1 wire broiler, 2 frying 



BAGGAGE RESTRICTIONS. 97 

pans, 2 frying pan handles, 1 large spoon, 1 large 
meat fork, I dozen teaspoons, i dozen knives, I 
dozen forks, 1 salt box, 1 pepper box, i dozen nested 
tin cups, 5 oblong nested stew kettles, 1 wash basin, 1 
rubber collapsible water bucket, 5 stew kettle lids, 1 
butcher knife, 1 dishcloth, 1 cake home-made soap, 
2 tea towels. 

And, in addition, the following : 1 coil copper wire, 
assorted wire nails, J pound arsenic, 1 pair moccasins, 
2 pairs shoe packs, 1 pair heavy woolen stockings, 40 
rounds rifle cartridges (40-65), 1 bag chewing tobacco, 
2 bags smoking tobacco, 1 pound pulverized alum, 
and 1 hank heavy cord. 

The stove being full, it was padded over the open 
bottom with excelsior three inches thick for protec- 
tion to carrier's back, then entirely covered with thick 
bagging, which was well sewed on and the package 
completed by buckling on the carrying strap (see cut, 
page 98), the whole weighing seventy-six pounds — a 
convenient load for a native Newfoundlander. 

BAGGAGE RESTRICTIONS. 

Each member of the party was allowed to take as 
much baggage as he desired to the point of disembar- 
cation, Pilley's Island. When the outfit left Pilley's, 
each was restricted to the following, a list of which 



98 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




CARRY-ALL WITH CARRYING STRAP ATTACHED. 



was sent him : 1 hunting hat, 1 hunting cap, 1 hunt- 
ing coat, 1 hunting vest, 1 Cardigan jacket, 2 under- 
shirts, 2 pairs drawers, 1 pair hunting pants, 1 extra 
pair pants, 4 pairs stockings, 2 overshirts, 1 pair hunt- 
ing shoes, 1 extra pair shoes, 1 pair rubber boots, 1 
pair gloves, 1 pair woolen blankets (single), 1 rubber 
blanket, 1 carry-all, 1 match safe, J dozen handker- 



WHAT WE CARRIED. 99 

chiefs, 1 towel, 1 washrag, 1 cake toilet soap, 1 gun 
(rifle or rifle and shot), 1 jointed cleaning rod and oil, 
1 light reel, 1 short trunk rod, 1 small fly book, extra 
hooks, etc., 1 case needles, thread, buttons, 1 compass, 
1 hunting knife, 1 rubber collapsible drinking cup, 1 
pair slippers (heavy soles), 1 package paper, envelopes, 
postals, pipes and tobacco, cigars, etc., and one good 
field or opera grass. 

In addition to the above the writer took in a 
"Ditty Bag" made from an ordinary shot bag the fol- 
lowing medical supplies; sufficient for the whole 
party : 25 sugar coated imp'd. co. cath. pills, 50 sugar 
coated 2 gr. quin. pills, 50 i gr. morph. granules, i oz. 
Norwood's Tr. Verat. Viridi, 2 oz. chloroform, J oz. fld. 
ext. Ipecac, i oz. Tr. Dover's powder, 1 oz. oxide zinc 
ointment, 1 roll rubber adhesive plaster 1 in. wide, 2 
drachms stearate of zinc, 3 roller bandages, 1 hypoder- 
mic syringe, i oz. chlor. anodyne (Parke, Davis & Co.). 

Any physician will furnish specific directions for 
the use of the above named remedies and appliances, 
in case there is none in the party. The list given 
embraces all that will be necessary, and the remedies, 
if handled with a moderate amount of care and intel- 
ligence, will meet most of the ills incident to camp 
life in a northern climate. To this extra personal 
baggage was added the author's case of 



100 



CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




GUNS AND AMMUNITION. 101 

CAMP CONVENIENCES, 

which he has for years taken with him, and now 
deems almost indispensable on fishing, hunting and 
collecting tours. 

GUNS AND AMMUNITION. 

As there are still "many men of many minds," it 
would be impossible to restrict any sportsman as to 
what arm among the many he should use. Now-a-days 
there are no poor guns made, comparatively speaking. 
No man should take two guns into this country un- 
less he can take two in one. He will find that with 
one and his pack, a tramp of some sixteen miles will 
give him all he cares to carry. A shotgun is of no 
earthly use in caribou hunting — you might just as 
well shoot into a sand-bank. Their covering of short 
thick hair on a thick hide is almost proof against 
buckshot. On the other hand the beautiful ptar- 
migan or willow-grouse are plentiful, of superb flavor, 
and serve as an agreeable change in diet ; but it re- 
quires a shotgun to get them. The conditions thus 
stated suggest the proper gun — either a Daily three- 
barrel or a gun suggested by the writer, invented and 
patented by Prof. Wm. B. Hall, of Lancaster, Pa. 
This gun weighs but eight and one-fourth pounds, 
and meets all the requirements of any hunt, after any 



102 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




THE HALL COMBINATION RIFLE AND SHOTGUN. 



GUNS AND AMMUNITION. 103 

game. The rifle barrel, which is on top, may be 
made to any calibre to suit the fancy of the owner, 
from 50 clown. The action is strong and perfect. 
The shot-barrel is a 20-bore cylinder, shoots shot well, 
and does good execution with a patched round ball 
at seventy-five to one hundred yards. This would be 
the ideal gun with jacketed bullet for rifle and 
smokeless powder. A repeater is not necessary ex- 
cept in war. As each hunter is allowed to kill but 
five bull and three doe caribou, he should shoot for 
fine specimens. On small game there is no restric- 
tion. As lead is heavy, it is well to take only what 
ordnance stores are necessary. Forty rounds of rifle 
cartridges are plenty — and, if a shot-barrel is used, 50 
assorted sizes of small shot is quite sufficient. Mr. 
Kepler carrecl his Daily 3-barrel gun — the one he 
has been using for the last fifteen years ; shot-barrel 
12-bore; rifle, 45-70 Govt. Mr. J. W. Davis, "The 
Kid" owned no gun, and used the author's Hall gun, 
20-bore shot, rifle 40-82. The Avriter used a 40-65 
Winchester with a Malcolm telescope sight. 

A small, light tent is a necessity. Having exam- 
ined carefully the Protean tent, manufactured by A. 
S. Comstock, of Evanston, Ills., we Avere not long in 
selecting just what we wanted. Size, on ground, 7x7 
feet; height of rear Avail, 2 feet; height at the only 



104 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



pole used, 7 feet 3 inches ; 8-ounce army duck. This 
tent gives more room and stands more blow than any 
tent made, and the price is reasonable. 

Our preparations at this end of the line were now 
about completed, and in the next chapter we will 
reach Newfoundland. 




THE COMSTOCK ONE-POLE PROTEAN TENT. 




CHAPTER XII. 

FROM NEW YORK TO ST. JOHN'S. 

How to Get to Newfoundland — Red Cross Line — The Silvia 
and Portia — Time Table and Rates of Fare — No Duty and 
Twenty Cubic Feet for Baggage — Marching Orders — Mis- 
take No. 1 — On Board the Portia— Off to the North — 
Halifax— Fog off Cape Race — Away to St. John's. 

HILE the preparations detailed in the last 
chapter were being made, the route and 
dates were also being arranged. Communi- 
cation had been established with Messrs. Bowring & 
Archibald, Produce Exchange Annex, 9 Stone St., 
New York, who are agents for the Red Gross Line of 
steamers plying between New York, Halifax, N. S., 
St. John's and Pilley's Island. These two steamers, 

THE SILVIA AND PORTIA, 

were built especially for this trade, are of high speed, 
and have all the modern improvements. One of 
them leaves Robinson's, Congress St., Stores Dock, 
Brooklyn, fortnightly, sails through Long Island,, 
Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, thereby insuring; 
smooth water, except during a storm, for nearly half 

8 ( 105 ) 



106 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

the distance to and from Halifax, which is the first 
call. The next landing is made at St. John's, New- 
foundland. From St. John's they proceed to the 
Pyrites mines at Pilley's Island, Bay of Notre Dame, 
240 miles north of St. John's, and your proper place 
to stop if you are desirous of securing some fine 
heads of the North American Reindeer or Woodland 
Caribou. The 

AVERAGE TIME EN EOUTE 

northward is as follows: 

ISTew York to Halifax 50 hours. 

Stay at Halifax about 20 hours. 

Halifax to St. John's 50 hours. 

Stay at St. John's 2 days. 

St. John's to Pilley's Island 24 hours. 

And returning southward: 

Pilley's Island to St. John's 24 hours. 

Stay at St. John's.... 24 hours. 

St. John's to Halifax 50 hours. 

Stay at Halifax 24 hours. 

Halifax to New York 50 hours. 

RATES OF PASSAGE. 

The rates here given include meals and state-room 
berth as well as meals during stops : 



MARCHING ORDERS. 107 

Cabin, First Class. 

New York to Halifax and return $28.00 

New York to St. John's and return 34.00 

New York to Pilley's Island and return 72.00 

If there are four in the party the accommodating 
agents will allow an agent's commission of five per 
cent., which will add $14.40 towards the purchase of 
provisions for the outfit. 

NO DUTY AND TWENTY CUBIC FEET SPACE ALLOWED 
FOR BAGGAGE. 

There is no duty on guns or any other baggage, 
providing you bring the articles back to the United 
States; and each passenger is allowed twenty cubic 
feet of space for baggage, irrespective of weight. 
Hand baggage and guns are allowed in state rooms. 

All preliminaries having been attended to, all we 
required was a telegram from Bowring & Archibald 
announcing the arrival and sailing of the Portia, 
which, as we had been informed, would not sail 
through to Pilley's Island, but connect at St. John's 
with the coast steamers sailing north, and land us at 
Pilley's Island about the i2th to the 15th of October. 

MARCHING ORDERS. 

September 28th, in the early morning, the word 
came, "Portia sails from Robinson's, Congress Street, 



108 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Stores,, Brooklyn, at 12 M., September 29th." At 
4:45 P. M. we boarded the train at Lancaster, Pa., 
with only one incident to mar the pleasant anticipa- 
tions which we had been nursing for a year and 
more — the one unpleasant thing which occurs on 
very many occasions just at the critical moment — 
Mr. H. W. Bush, a good hunter and jovial compan- 
ion, was obliged to remain at home on account of 
business complications over which he had no control. 

This sudden break left but three in our party — the 
writer, Mr. A. C. Kepler, of Lancaster, and Mr. J. W. 
Davis, of Burlington, N. J. This not only deprived 
us of the company of Mr. Bush, but as well his share 
of the expenses, which amounted to considerable. 

The Burlington contingent met us at the Astor 
House on Saturday morning, the 29th, as per pre- 
vious arrangement, and by 10 A. M. we were at the 
office of Bowring & Archibald, and soon secured our 
passage and each a draft for $100.00 (at an expense of 
fifty cents per hundred), as we had already learned 
that in Newfoundland American money would be 
subject to a shave of three per cent. In this transac- 
tion we made a mistake, and others would do well to 
benefit by our experience. We should have con- 
verted all our money into drafts from $10.00 up, 
which would not only have saved us quite a snug 



OFF TO THE NORTH. 109 

little sum, but would have spared us the mortification 
of seeing our good United States money discounted 
by a bankrupt country. 

ON BOAED THE POETIA. 

By 11 A. M. we were all on board, had good rooms 
assigned us, made the acquaintance of the officers and 
a tour of general inspection. The Portia is a fine 
English steamer of 732 tons, 250 feet long, with ac- 
commodations for ninety passengers and a large 
amount of freight. She is well furnished, kept clean 
and neat, and the state rooms are large and well 
arranged. We soon learned that we would not get 
off at 12 M. As a matter of fact we did not sail until 
6 P. M. At 2 P. M. we had a sumptuous dinner, 
including the delicacies of the season — the sun- 
browned veteran, Captain Ash, presiding. He, it 
will be remembered, was ice-pilot on the Bear on 
the expedition which was sent to Lieut. Greely's res- 
cue. For a quarter of a century he has skirted the 
ragged ice-bound coasts of Newfoundland, Labrador 
and Greenland. 

OFF TO THE NOETH. 

At 6 P. M. the anchor was raised and the Portia 
floated off like a swan. The weather was warm and 
sultry, and not a cloud in sight as large as a hand. 



110 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

We all enjoyed the evening sail to the fullest extent 
and retired at eleven, sleeping soundly until about four 
on Sunday morning, when we were aroused from our 
peaceful slumbers by a terrible commotion on deck. 
The ship was rolling and pitching to such an extent 
that it was difficult to keep from being thrown from 
our berths, and the cuspidor was shooting from one 
side of the room to the other like a billiard ball. 
In short, we were in a gale. The deck space was 
mostly taken up by pork, coal oil, apples and other 
barreled goods, and they were performing the same 
gyrations as the cuspidors in the state rooms below. 
At 7 A. M., when opposite Johnstone's Island, the 
Captain wisely concluded to cast anchor and lash the 
deck load to the railing. At 7 P. M. the anchor was 
again hauled up and we steamed off, making about 
six miles, when old Neptune became so boisterous 
that at one time ten feet of water swept over the Por- 
tia's forward deck, compelling us to face about again 
and cast anchor near the spot we had recently left. 

Monday, October 1st Avas cold and clear, though 
windy. At 5 A. M. we were again under way, roll- 
ing along at a fair speed. Though we had but little 
wind during the afternoon the sea was still rough fol- 
lowing the storm, which as will be remembered was 
very disastrous along the whole Atlantic coast. 



ON BOAED THE FOETIA. 



Ill 




112 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Tuesday, October 2d. Thermometer 56; no wind, 
clear. 

Wednesday, October 3d. Thermometer 50; clear, 
no wind. We entered the harbor of Halifax, Nova 
Scotia, at 8 A. M. 

HALIFAX. 

The city is located in one of the finest harbors in 
the world, on the Atlantic coast. It forms a loop, the 
harbor and city being surrounded by high mountains 
and hills, all sides of which are lined with forts studded 
with bristling cannon. The first thing we did was to 
find the post and telegraph offices, after which we made 
a tour of the city, which is indeed very beautiful, con- 
taining massive buildings, fine stores, pretty streets, 
botanical gardens, museums, etc. We had ample time 
to walk through all the principal parts of the city, and 
among the objects of interest we visited the citadel, the 
most important fort, from which we were afforded a 
magnificent bird's-ej^e view of the city and harbor. 
One of the attractions in the latter was Her Majesty's 
steamship, the Blake. Our paper currency was all 
right and taken at par, but our silver they refused to 
take at all. We left Halifax at 3.45 P. M. 

Thursday, October 4th. Thermometer 60 ; cloudy. 
Began raining this evening, and continued most of the 
night. 



AWAY TO ST. JOHN'S. 113 

IN A FOG OFF CAPE KACE. 

Friday, October 5th. Thermometer 56; fog. At 
5.30 this morning we were awakened by the fog sig- 
nal, which was continued all day, as well as soundings 
every half hour until we passed Cape Race, when to- 
wards evening the fog lifted, and we were running at 
full speed for St. John's. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE CAPITAL AND ITS SIGHTS. 

At St. John's — The Stars and Stripes Eaised on our Hotel — A 
Hospitable City — Mistake No. 2 — Game Laws of New- 
foundland — The Stipendiary Magistrate — The License- 
Purchasing Supplies — Eight Men for Twenty Days — Two 
Dollars a Day "Dry" — Packing for Cache — Mistake No. 
3 — Kubber the Only Wear — Seeing the City — The Nar- 
rows — A Land Locked Harbor — The City — Relative Dis- 
tances — The Museum — The Cathedral — Parliament House 
— Quidi Vidi. 

ATURDAY, October 6th. Thermometer 55 ; 
clear. At 4 A. M. we were awakened by 
the casting of the anchor in the harbor of 
St. John's. We rose at six, collected our hand bag- 
gage, passed the customs officers all right, and after a 
few minutes' walk up grade we were registered at the 
City Hotel, Mrs. G. Walch, proprietress; rate, $1.50 
per day, good rooms, comfortable beds, electric light, 
bath and plenty of clean, well-cooked, wholesome food. 

HP GOES THE STARS AND STRIPES. 

Scarcely had the ink time to dry on the register, 
when up went the flag of our country in our honor. 

(114) 




MISTAKE NO. 2. 115 

We soon learned that the knowledge that one is an 
American is a sufficient passport in Newfoundland, 
not only in the capital of the country, but in every 
hamlet throughout the entire island. Never in any 
country where it has been the writer's privilege to 
travel has he been the recipient of so much unsold 
cited hospitality as was accorded our party during our 
short stay in St. John's. To mention the names of 
all who were active in their zeal to make us comforta- 
ble and supply us with such information as we desired 
would be impossible, and to refer to a few would be 
injustice to all others with whom we came in contact. 
After breakfast we started out to attend the busi- 
ness of the hour, and as the sailing date of the first 
coast steamer north for Pilley's Island governed our 
stay in St. Sohn's, it was to ascertain of that fact first; 
so we proceeded to the office of the N. F. Coastal 
Steamship Company's office, Harvey & Co., where 
we were informed that the next vessel, the Virginia 
Lake, would sail for Pilley's Island between the 9th 
and 12th of October. This bit of information also 
reminded us of 

MISTAKE NO. 2, 

as we were now to spend at least five or six days in 
St. John's, at an actual expense of $1.50 a day each, 



116 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

which could all have been saved had we but waited 
for the Silvia, which calls long enough at St. John's 
for the tourist to transact all necessary business, after 
which she sails direct to Pilley's. Our information 
cost us this cool cash in addition to the three per 
cent, discount, and we trust those who follow us will 
profit by the old adage " a penny saved is a penny 
earned," and avoid our mistake. 

After bewailing our misfortune we next started out 
to hunt up the august personage who was to relieve 
us each of $100.00 and one hundred cents for a 
license to permit each to shoot five male and three 
female caribou, this being the limit allowed by the 

GAME LAWS OF NEWFOUNDLAND, 

of which we here give a brief summary: 

Caribou — Deer Preservation Act of 1889. I. Here- 
after no person shall kill any caribou except from the 
15th day of September until the 15th day of Feb- 
ruary, both inclusive. II. No person shall during 
any one year or season kill more than five stag and 
three doe caribou. Notwithstanding anything con- 
tained in this Act, any poor settler may kill caribou 
(or deer), for his immediate consumption or that of 
his family, or may kill for purposes of sale within the 
Colony during the season, between the 1st of October 



GAME LAWS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 117 

and the 15th of February, in any year not more than 
ten caribou (or deer), but not by any snare or trap, or 
pit, or by the hunting or chasing of dogs. 

Non-Resident Licenses — III. No person not actually 
a resident in this Colony or its dependencies shall kill 
caribou without having first procured a license for 
the season, and shall pay for such license an annual 
sum of $100.00. V. The license required by this Act 
may be issued by a Stipendiary Magistrate, Collector 
or Sub-Collector of Customs, a Justice of the Peace, 
and such other officers or persons as may be empow- 
ered by the Governor in Council for that purpose, 
the person requiring the license paying therefor one 
dollar. 

Exportation — VIII. No person shall export or 
carry with him out of this Colony any venison or the 
heads, antlers, skins or other parts of the caribou with- 
out first clearing the same at some Custom House. 

Dogs — XI. Any person who shall hereafter kill 
any caribou with dogs shall be liable to a fine of 
$25.00. 

Ptarmigan, Willow Grouse, Partridges — I. No per- 
son shall kill any ptarmigan or willow grouse (com- 
monly called partridge) or any other kind of grouse 
or partridge within this Colony between the 12th of 
January and the 15th of September. 






118 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Migratory Birds — An Act of June 11, 1890, § 2. 
No person shall kill any curlew, plover, snipe or 
other wild migratory birds (excepting wild geese) be- 
tween the 12th day of January and the 20th day of 
August. 

Moose, Elk. V. No person shall kill any moose or 
elk for a period of ten years from the 1st of January, 
1886. 

Rabbit, Hare. VIII. No person shall kill any wild 
rabbit or hare from the 1st of March until the 1st of 
September. 

Salmon, Grilse, Par, Trout, Char. 102, § II. No sal- 
mon shall be taken before the 1st day of May or after 
the 10th day of September. Trout, char, whitefish, 
landlocked salmon. Chapter 7, Laws of 1888, § I. 
No person shall catch any kind of trout, char, white- 
fish, landlocked salmon or any fresh water or any 
migratory fish between the 15th day of September 
and the 1st day of February. 

Soon after starting on our search for the means of 
complying with this law, we met a policeman, and in- 
quired of him as to who was the proper person to is- 
sue our licenses. He very courteously volunteered to 
accompany us to the Court House, ushered us in, gave 
us comfortable seats, and as a cause was being tried 
we were well entertained as it progressed. Finally 



THE STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE. 119 

the Judge postponed the case, when one of the uni- 
formed officers of the Court was noticed holding a 
short but private whispering conversation with His 
Honor, and he at once repaired to an adjoining room 
which proved to be his private office, and we were 
soon ushered into his august presence. 

THE STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE. 

After a greeting only such as a hospitable New- 
foundlander and the prospective recipient of $303.00. 
could accord, he passed the pipe and proceeded to tell 
us of the grand sport to be had Avith rod and gun in 
the Colony. In short, he had so much to say and 
was wound up so tight, that half an hour had passed 
and nothing was done toward filling up our certifi- 
cates or licenses. Soon an officer appeared, and after 
making a military salute, informed His Honor that 
the barristers and their clients were waiting his pres- 
ence. Somewhat annoyed at being disturbed in his 
reverie, he curtly replied, "Let them wait." Seeing 
that there was little prospect of getting our licenses 
without interfering with the rights of good people in 
the court room, the writer suggested that inasmuch as 
His Honor's time was valuable and we were obliged 
to be loafers until the Virginia Lake sailed in five or 
six days, we would call at a fixed hour in the after- 






120 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

noon. In the mean time he could cause our papers 
to be prepared, when it would require but a short 
time to arrange our business. With some hesitancy 
he consented, and we bowed ourselves out promising 
to call at the appointed hour. We were on hand at 
the time named ; he was in his office, and had the 
floor covered with six of the finest gray wolf skins we 
had ever seen, and upon which he informed us he had 
just paid a bounty of $12.00 each. One of our party 
observed that they would make fine robes, when he 
remarked with a sly twinkle in his eye that the law 
required him to take possession of the pelts in order 
that dishonest persons might not collect the bounty a 
second time on the same animals ! We were soon re- 
lieved of our cash, and in return were each in posses- 
sion of the folloAving license : 



GAME LAWS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 



121 



Police Office, St. John's, Newfoundland, 



#&£.._,..£. 



JlZr 



^ 



•*~ #L <&^£~&m«2-*-t~*, j^*** 1 " ^^^^ /&Ljg%„ <9p4-4dtjA~-+^tr 
J&U<r£f &l/&~~ ^o /&*£** ^f**.*.* (0^3^ gu^^c^ U^ * — 

LICENSE $100.00 AND 100 CENTS. 




In addition to the restrictions contained in the 
above, we were obliged to subscribe to a written obli- 
gation that Ave would use our utmost endeavors to 
preserve the flesh of the animals taken. Before leav- 
ing, he insisted on us taking tea with him at his villa 
in the suburbs on the following day (Sunday) between 
the hours of 3 and 5 P. M. 



122 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Sunday, October 7th. Thermometer 50 ; clear, pleas- 
ant. This morning we all accompanied our landlady 
to a Wesleyan church, where a bright Irish minister 
preached us a good, solid sermon. The congregation 
was made up of a good class of people, and from their 
general appearance there was no mistaking their in- 
telligence and standing in society. In the afternoon 
we took a walk to the top of Signal Hill. This hill is 
situated on the east side of the channel entrance to the 
harbor, and is a barren rock with two beautiful little 
lakes nestling on its western slope just below the crest. 

Monday, October 8th. Thermometer 45 ; fog in the 
morning. As we had not yet laid in our supplies, 
and from what information we were able to collect 
concluded that St. John's was the proper place to do 
so, this day (or as much thereof as was necessary) was 
set apart for that purpose; and it is but justice to the 
St. John's merchants to say that no one can go wrong 
in making purchases of supplies from any of the 
many retail stores which line Water Street for more 
than a mile. We selected Bowring Brothers, where 
we were well treated and the goods furnished were 
first-class, fresh and at reasonable prices. 

EIGHT MEN FOR TWENTY DAYS. 

As our party would consist of the five natives and 



EIGHT MEN FOR TWENTY DAYS. 



123 



three hunters, we had to provide for eight people for 
the twenty days we intended being away from salt 
water, on the basis that we would have from the start 
all the fresh meat Ave could use; also salt sufficient 
for table use, as well as the curing of twenty-four 
hides and heads, in case we should desire to bring 
that number out. Our past experience proved of 
value, and enabled us to make ends meet very 
nicely by purchasing the following articles — the 
prices being appended to enable those interested to 
better calculate the expenses of a similar trip : 



50 pounds No. 1 hard bread, @ 7c $3.50 

150 " flour, @ 4c 6.00 

25 " corn meal, @ 5c 1.25 

30 " roll bacon, @ 25c 7.50 

30 " family pork, @ 12c 3.60 

7 " coffee, @ 35c 2.45 

4 " tea, \ pound packs, @ 60c 2.40 

25 " granulated sugar, @ 10c 2.50 

5 " rice, @ 10c 50 

5 " beans, @ 7c 35 

\ " black pepper, @ 20c 10 

20 " onions, @ 5c 1.00 

4 " candles, @ 20c 80 

10 bags salt,. @ 3c 30 

3 1-pound cans Royal Baking Powder, @ 20c .60 
1 box matches 15 



124 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

3 gallons molasses, in 3 stone jugs $1.25 

1 lantern for candles 75 

4 yards oilcloth 1.25 

1 dozen cans milk 1.80 

$38.05 

Making $12.68 for each man's share, and less than 
two dollars a day for twenty days for eight men, 
with appetites like bark mills. 

It will be noticed that but few luxuries are in- 
cluded in the forgoing list, and on that account it 
might not suit the tastes of many. Butter, for ex- 
ample, might have been added, and indeed many 
other articles, but they would have added considerable 
weight and very little solid comfort. It will also be 
noticed that what are known as "wet goods," "snake 
bite," "tangle foot," etc., are not included in the out- 
fit. We had two half-pint flasks of whiskey with us, 
to be used for medicinal purposes only, and both were 
taken back to salt water with the corks undisturbed. 

Inasmuch as it was an impossibility to carry our 
outfit all the way in at one trip, it was evident that 
what could not be taken had to be cached at or near 
the head of West Pond, the end of water transporta- 
tion. We therefore had all goods that could be di- 
vided put up in four different parcels and packed in 
four boxes, each box containing as near as possible 



MISTAKE NO. 3. 125 

one of the four parts of each article. These boxes 
were numbered from one to four and four num- 
bered lists made of their contents. 

MISTAKE NO. 3. 

Having completed our commissary purchases, we 
were ready for the next order of business, viz., the 
procuring for each a pair of sealskin Labrador boots, 
which we were assured by Wakeman Holbertson, in 
his description of a hunt in Newfoundland, were the 
only footwear which could be used. He went even 
so far as to assert that rubber goods could not be used 
in Newfoundland. Had he advised rubber boots as the 
only proper footgear to use on a caribou hunt in New- 
foundland, he would have saved us from having our 
six legs pulled to the tune of $2.50 per leg. We got 
them all right, at $5.00 a pair. True, they are the 
lightest boot made, and may do on dry ice and in dry 
snow, but not to wade through water halfway, up to 
the knees. They are as thin as writing paper, and 
the only way you can put them on is when sopping 
wet. They are not waterproof according to the 
American interpretation of the term as we saw it. 
My friends after testing theirs gave them to the car- 
riers ; I brought mine home as a relic, and they are 
for sale cheap. 



126 



CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



SEEING THE CITY. 

Tuesday, October 9th — Thermometer, 50; clear. 
Having attended to all the business matters deemed 
necessary, this day was set apart for sight-seeing in 
this land-locked city within sight of the turbulent At- 
lantic. For picturesqueness of situation there is no 







AN OLD VIEW OF ST. JOHN'S. 



other city in North America to compare with St. 
John's. As the voyager coming northward from 
Cape Race sails along the grim-walled coast, whose 
rocks tower from two to four hundred feet high and 
hurl back the waves in defiance, the steamer sud- 
denly turns her prow shoreward, as if to dash herself 
against the dark cliffs. In a few moments a narrow 



THE NARROWS. 127 

opening in the rocky Avail is seen, as if by some con- 
vulsion of nature the great dark rampart had been 
rent asunder and the sea had rushed in. As the ship 
glides through this cleft, the traveller looks not with- 
out a touch of awe at the great cliffs of dark red sand- 
stone, piled in broken masses on a foundation of gray 
slate rock. On the right he sees an almost perpen- 
dicular precipice 300 feet in height, above which rises 
with almost equal steepness the crest of Signal Hill, 
520 feet above the level of the sea, on which stands 
the block house for signalling vessels as they ap- 
proach the harbor. On the left the rugged hill at- 
tains a height of six hundred feet; from its base a 
rocky promontory juts out, forming the entrance to 
the Narrows on one side. On the summit of this 
projection is Fort Amherst lighthouse, where is heard 
the hoarse music of the restless Atlantic, whose waves 
lash the rocks beneath. 

THE NARROWS. 

Formerly batteries armed with formidable guns rose 
one over the other on the projecting shoulders and 
narrow platforms of the surrounding cliffs, and at the 
narrowest point a rock above water stands off from 
the shore known as Chain Rock, where in former, 
times, during the troubles with foreign nations, a huge 



128 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




FORT AMHERST. 



chain stretched across the Narrows, bolted into this 
rock on one side, and raised or lowered as required 
by a powerful capstan on the other side, precluded 
the possible entrance of any hostile fleets. 

The Narrows or channel leading to the harbor is 
nearly half a mile in length, and it is not until two- 
thirds of it have been passed that the city of 30,000 
inhabitants can be seen. At the end of the Narrows 
the harbor trends suddenly to the west, thus com- 
pletely shutting out the swell of the ocean. In ten 
minutes after the bow is turned shoreward the steamer 
is safely moored in a perfectly land-locked harbor. 
Vessels of the largest tonnage can enter at all stages of 
the tide, the rise of which does not exceed four feet. 



THE CITY. 



129 



Between Signal Hill and Fort Amherst, at the en- 
trance, the Narrows are about 1,400 feet in width; 
and at the narrowest point, between Pancake and 
Chain Rocks, they are not more than 600 feet wide. 
The harbor is one mile long, half a mile wide, and 90 
feet deep, with mud bottom ; and its equal would be 
hard to find anywhere. 

The city is built on the gradually sloping bluff on 
the north side of the harbor. On top of the slope 
there is a large level plain, which is occupied by beau- 
tiful residences; and still further northward is a 
stretch of fine agricultural land, divided into many 
fine farms. The principal streets are Water, Duck- 
worth and Gowen. The new part built since the last 
great fire in 1892 is considerably improved, and the 





ST. JOHN'S BURNT DISTRICT AFTER FIRE OF 1892. 



130 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

large business houses in the eastern half of Water 
Street compare favorably with similar structures in 
cities of the same size in any part of the United 
States. There is an excellent system of sewerage, and 
the water supply cannot be excelled. It is obtained 
from Windsor Lake, four miles distant, the lake being 
four hundred feet above the level of the sea. 

RELATIVE DISTANCES. 

St. John's is situated on the east side of the penin- 
sula of Avalon, which presents a wide frontage to the 
sea and is the portion of North America nearest to 
the Old World. It is sixty miles north of Cape Race, 
600 miles from Halifax, 1,170 miles from Montreal, 
1,200 miles from New York and 1,700 miles from 
Queenstown, being 1,000 miles nearer the latter place 
than is New York. The codfish and seal industries 
are well illustrated by a visit to the large warehouses 
of Baine Johnston, Job, Monroe, Thorburn and many 
others along the dock. 

The post office is a fine commodious structure situ- 
ated towards the western end of Water Street. The 
upper floor is devoted to the purposes of a public 
museum, which we found Avell worth a visit. 

THE MUSEUM. 

Here are arrayed specimens of all the minerals and 



THE CATHOLIC CATHEDEAL. 131 

coals found in the island, as well as building stone, 
marbles, granites, woods, etc. 

The birds, animals and fossil remains of extinct 
species are well represented, and the antiquarian will 
find a most interesting collection of relics belonging 
to the once powerful though now extinct aboriginal 
inhabitants, the Beothiks, or "Red Indians." Here 
are skulls and almost complete skeletons of this ex- 
tinct race, together with their stone implements, ar- 
row heads, gouges, hatchets, etc. The seal industry 
is well represented here, not only by mounted speci- 
mens, but a fine model of a sealing vessel, ice pan and 
the method of capture in all its phases. 

THE DRY DOCK. 

Continuing our walk westward, the Long Bridge is 
reached, near the head of the harbor, where is the 
dry dock, built of wood and opened in 1884. It is 
600 feet long, 83 feet wide and 25 feet deep at low 
water, and capable of accommodating all but the very 
largest vessels afloat. It cost $550,000.00. 

THE CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 

This is the largest and most conspicuous building 
and stands on the summit of the hill overlooking the 
city. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 237 feet in 



132 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 






THE CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 




CHURCH OF ENGLAND CATHEDRAL. 



QUIDI VIDI. 133 

length and 180 feet across the transept, with two 
towers 138 feet high. Adjacent to it are the bishop's 
palace, St. Bonaventure's college and convent. The 
whole group of buildings cost over $500,000.00. 

CHUECH OF ENGLAND CATHEDRAL. 

This building, which stands about halfway up the 
slope, will be when completed one of the finest eccle- 
siastical edifices in British America. Unifortunately 
it was greatly injured by the great fire of 1892, but is 
being rapidly restored. 

THE PAELIAMENT HOUSE. 

On the military road along the crest of the ridge 
stands the Colonial Building, which contains cham- 
bers for the two branches of the Legislature, and also 
most of the public offices. It is 110 feet long and 85 
feet wide, and was built in 1847 at a cost of £100,- 
000. Near it is the 

GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 

This comfortable residence of the representative of 
royalty is surrounded by well kept grounds, and 
though plain in architecture, is a very desirable hab- 
itation. 

QUIDI VIDI. 

Wednesday, October 10th. Thermometer 50; rain- 
ing by spells, clearing in the afternoon. To-day we 






134 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




PARLIAMENT HOUSE. 




GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 



QUIDI VIDI. 



135 



took an interesting walk to another of the points of 
interest in the suburbs of this quaint city. Those 
visiting St. John's should not fail to see this interest- 
ing little fishing village, Quidi Vidi, only a short walk 
of half a mile from the city. The road to it leads 




QUIDI VIDI. 



you past the penitentiary and hospital and along the 
shore of pretty Quidi Vidi Lake, on which an annual 
regatta is held and in winter curling tournaments. 
The village is a counterpart of hundreds Avhich can 
be seen from the vessel wherever there is a harbor, 
the entrance to which is large enough to admit of the 
passage of a fisherman's boat. In this instance the 
fissure in the rocky wall is not more than from twelve 



136 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

to fifteen feet wide, and the harbor contains scarcely 
more than an acre of water surface. As seen in the 
illustration, their little cottages are clinging to the 
rocky ledges, while the stages where they land their 
fish project over the water, as well as the "flakes" on 
which the cod are dried. During the fishing season 
the whole process of "splitting," "heading" and 
"salting" can be seen. To add to the picturesque- 
ness of the scene, a little river which flows through 
Lake Quidi forms a beautiful little cascade as it falls 
over the rocks into the diminutive harbor. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

OFF FOR THE HUNT. 

Northward 240 Miles More — Arrival at Pilley's Island — Down 
Hall's Bay in the Niphin — Mistake No. 4 — Hotel Le Buffe 
— The Guide and His Family — Forward to West Pond — 
Big Marsh — " Grub" or Tea and Tobacco — Our Cabin. 

THURSDAY, October 11th— Thermometer, 
48; clear and pleasant. An early visit to 
the Coastal Steamship Company's office had 
elicited the welcome information that the S. S. Vir- 
ginia Lake would sail at 11 A. M. We soon had our 
dunnage on board, tickets purchased and state rooms 
assigned us ; and long ere the time for departure we 
were on hand, anxious to get off — though the time 
spent in St. John's had not hung heavily on our 
hands. The Virginia Lake is a handsome boat, and 
her commander, Capt. Taylor, we found to be one of 
the most jovial and accommodating gentlemen we 
had met. Nothing was too much trouble for him 
when the comfort of his passengers entered into the 
question. The illustration shows Mr. Moore, an old 
native sea captain, retired, and Captain Taylor of the 
Virginia Lake. 

10 ( 137 ) 



138 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




TWO OLD NATIVE SALTS. 



Friday, October 12th. Thermometer, 40; raining. 
To-day we passed several icebergs — in fact they could 
be seen almost at any time during the day. 

Saturday, October 13th. Thermometer 40 ; clear. 
Arrived at Pool Island at 6 A. M. This is a small 
town in a fine harbor, and is noted for its being the 
residence of several wealthy seal captains. The 
houses are built mostly upon the rocks. One of 
them, more pretentious than the rest, had transported 
earth and formed quite a pretty lawn around his resi- 
dence. This was a charming day, clear and pleasant,. 



ARRIVAL AT PILLEY'S ISLAND. 139 

enabling us to spend most of the time on deck. Dur- 
ing the afternoon Ave met a string of fishing schooners 
numbering seventy-five or eighty on their way from 
the northern fishing grounds; and as the icebergs 
were still floating by, relieving the monotony, the 
time passed rapidly and pleasantly. 

Sunday, October 14th. Thermometer 56; clear. 
Steamer called at Franklin Harbor at 8 A. M. As 
this was our last day aboard, the steward had prepared 
a special breakfast, the principal dish being fresh cod- 
fish heads with cream sauce dressing. It is hardly 
necessary to say that with our sharpened appetites we 
were fully competent to do justice to this, one of the 
luxuries of a Newfoundland epicure. After a delight- 
ful sail of two hours after breakfast, the ship's course 
became more and more tortuous as she glided through 
narrow channels between islands, and the repeated 
orders "A little more to starboard, Sir," and "A little 
more to larboard, Sir," of the old salt at the wheel 
more frequent. We were delighted at the sudden ap- 
pearance of open water hemmed in by a rock-bound 
coast, and at 11:30 A. M. we were at the docks 

AT PILLEY'S ISLAND. 

We had been in communication with Mr. H. M. 
Herbert, who has charge of the Pilley's Island Pyrites 



140 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Co. store, and who was on the dock at the time of our 
arrival. We were not long in making arrangements 
with him and the manager of the mine to send us 
down to the head of Hall's Bay (25 miles), in their 
beautiful little steam launch "Nvpldn" for a consider- 
ation of $10.00. 

DOWN HALL'S BAY IN THE NIPKIN. 

By the time we had made arrangements for the 
launch, the guide, Richard Le Buffe, showed up as 
per previous arrangement to meet us at Pilley's Is- 
land, and this proved to be 

MISTAKE NO. 4, 

inasmuch as he was three days from home, for which 
time we paid $3.00 a day. It was not long before we 
had ourselves and baggage on board, and at 2:45 P. M. 
our Captain (Mr. Colburn, the mine boss) sounded the 
whistle, opened the valve and in the presence of 
about half the population of the island we steamed 
off down the bay at the rate of six miles an hour, ar- 
riving at the head of the bay at 7:35 P. M. The 
whistle was sounded when within about a mile of our 
landing place, which brought two boats manned by our 
carriers, who soon transferred ourselves and baggage 
to shore and within fifty yards of our guide's cabin. 



HOTEL LE BUFFE. 



141 



The voyage down the bay was very attractive, the 
coast scenery being so different in the northern penin- 
sula from that of the southern. In the southern half 
of the island the coast is little but barren rocks, while 




HOTEL LE BUFFE, HALL 7 S BAY. 



north of Bonavista Bay the hills are covered with a 
profuse growth of foliage, and in the fall months the 
autumn leaves, interspersed with the deep dark green 
of the fir, juniper and cedars, present beautiful pic- 
tures not soon to be forgotten. The afternoon was 
one of the choicest, the air pure and invigorating, and 



142 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

both shores of the bay (owing to its narrowness) being 
within sight, we all enjoyed to the fullest extent the 
ride down. To add to the picturesqueness of the 
scenery, every now and then the sleek heads, with 
human-like eyes, of the bay seal would bob up, take 
in the situation and duck, reappearing fifty to a hun- 
dred and fifty yards away. 

AT HOTEL LE BUFFE. 

Richard Le BufFe is by birth a French Canadian, 
and has been a resident of Newfoundland for over 
twenty years; about forty-two years of age, strong, 
wiry and rather intelligent and untiring in his efforts 
to anticipate the wants of his employers ; and if the 
bivouac is crowded he will curl himself up like a dog 
and sleep beside the fire rather than crowd the mourn- 
ers. As a still hunter he cannot be excelled ; he un- 
derstands every trick pertaining to his craft, and in- 
variably divines the intentions of the leader of a herd 
of the great deer from their maneuvering, though a 
mile off. His family consists of a wife and four chil- 
dren, three little girls and a small boy. The wife is a 
daughter of "old man Goodyear," who lives in a lit- 
tle cove several miles up the bay — a native New- 
foundlander, whose whole life has been spent in seal 
and cod fishing ; and although nearly seventy years 



FORWARD TO WEST POND. 143 

of age he served as cook and carrier for our outfit, 
and stood up under as heavy a load as any of the rest. 
Mrs. Le Buffe is a good Christian woman and a mem- 
ber of the Church of England ; and although she has 
not had an opportunity of attending church for seven 
years, her children are required to go to prayers twice 
a day and those of them who are old enough are fa- 
miliar with the creed. The shriek of the Nij^kin's 
whistle was also a signal for this good housewife, and 
by the time we had our dunnage unloaded and taken 
care of, she had hot biscuit, molasses, tea and other 
viands in readiness, and the hungry crowd soon felt 
the better of a square meal. After tea, a general 
pow-wow and smoke followed, and by 10:30 we retired 
to a temporary bed, made on the floor of the cabin. 

Monday, October 15th. Thermometer 60 at 6 P. M. 
All were up at 5 A. M., and to our great disappoint- 
ment found a good rain on. Decided not to move 
until the weather cleared up, which it did at 2 P. Mi, 
and we had some sport duck and snipe shooting on 
the bay head. In the meantime the carriers moved 
our goods and chattels up West Pond Brook, three 
miles to the foot of West Pond, where they were 
cached under the canoes and oilcloth mentioned under 
the head of supplies. It will be noticed that under 
that head potatoes, or "spuds," as they are called in 



144 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



Newfoundland, were not mentioned. These were fur- 
nished by Le Buffe, from a fine crop of good varieties 
and fine specimens. 

Tuesday, October 16th. Thermometer 48 ; clear. All 
hands were up at 4 A. M., and by five we were on the 
march, and reached the foot of the pond in the gray 
of the morning. Soon our outfit was loaded, and the 
five miles up the pond was made at a good pace. 
There being no wind the water was as placid as a mill 




Martin Williams. .Tas. Sanders. Rich. LeBuff'. Indian Jim. Rich. Goodyear. 

OUR NATIVE CARRIERS AND GUIDE. 



OUR CABIN ON THE BIG MARSH. 145 

pond. Arriving at the head of the pond we pro- 
ceeded up the Brook about a mile, or as far as it 
is navigable for canoes during low water. Here we 
cached our supplies, each hunter carrying in his pack 
about twenty-five pounds besides his gun, the guide 
and carriers taking the stove and one package of 
supplies, besides our personal baggage, bedding, etc. 
Neither the guide nor carriers took guns, as the hun- 
ters are supposed to do all the shooting. The trail was 
good, with but two or three short hills until we ar- 
rived at the foot of the Big Marsh, some three miles 
from camp. This was laborious tramping, as without a 
load an ordinary sized man would sink to the ankles 
in the ooze at every step. During the whole day we 
made short marches of a mile and a half or two miles, 
when a halt would be made ; and half a dozen times 
during the journey the natives would "bile the kit- 
tle," as they call making tea. Give a Newfound- 
lander his choice between plenty of grub and no tea 
and tobacco, or tea and tobacco and no grub, and it 
would take him but a moment to decide in favor of 
the tea and tobacco. We arrived at 

OUR CABIN ON THE BIG MARSH 

just before sundown, giving us ample time to prepare 
supper, add fresh boughs to the sleeping apartment, 



146 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




CABIN" ON THE BIG MARSH. (See map for location.) 



etc., and as we were all tired, we slept the sleep of 
the just. 

And now, being fairly on the ground, we will de- 
vote the concluding chapter to the record of the hunt 
proper, hoping that our success and our enjoyment of 
it may lead many others to follow our example. 



CHAPTER XV. 

EECORD OF THE HUNT. 

The Cabin — Furniture — Thirty-seven Caribou seen though 
Raining the First Day — The " Lookouts " — The Doctor's 
Blind — Fresh Meat Plentiful — " Indian Jim" — We begin 
to Select Eepresentative Heads — The Kid's Red Letter 
Day — " Kep " Kills the Wrong Deer — William Paul, the 
Micmac and Family — Curing the Specimens — Killing at 
Twenty feet — Kep's Red Letter Day — Battle of the Stags — 
The " King " — The Doctor Makes a Long Shot, but gets 
Broken Antlers — The " Emperor " — Our Quota Nearly 
Filled — Preparing Trophies for Transportation — " Exhibi- 
bition " Stag — Bear Tracks — Back to Salt Water — No Mail 
from Home — How to Pack Specimens — At Pilley's Island 
Again — We Want to go Home — " Able Seamen " — Mr. 
Kepler Collars the Traps at St. John's, while we go on to 
Boston and Home — Conclusion. 




HE pages of this concluding chapter have 
been purposely held closely to the notes 
made at the time on the spot. Imagina- 
tion has no place here ; the trophies are pictured by 
unflattering sunlight, the originals are in our posses- 
sion, to be freely exhibited to the inquiring guest. 
We give the record as it is, believing the class we hope 

(147) 



148 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

to have as readers will thus receive most pleasure and 
benefit. 

Wednesday, October 17th. Thermometer 40 ; threat- 
ening. The cook had no difficulty in awakening any 
of the party for breakfast by daylight ; all Avere astir. 
Kepler, "the Kid" (J. W. Davis) and LeBuffe started 
out for fresh meat, while the writer took charge of the 
carriers and put the camp in shape. The cabin was 
a compromise between a lean-to and a regular log 
cabin. The roof was leaky, and the smoke-hole had 
to be closed. The rear wall, which was only about 
eighteen inches from the ground, was built up to four 
feet; a new birch-bark roof was put on, a stone plat- 
form was built for the stove, and it was put up; 
" splits" were secured, and from them tables were 
made, which were covered with birch bark. The tent 
was pitched, and surplus goods were stored therein. 
As the camp was located in the edge of the timber 
fronting the marsh, a fairly good view of the latter 
could be had from the immediate vicinity of the cabin ; 
and during the day the writer and the other men at 
work saw nineteen caribou passing on the opposite 
side of the marsh, some three-quarters of a mile dis- 
tant. 

Rain began to fall about noon, and the party who 
went out after meat came into camp empty-handed, 



THE "LOOKOUTS." 149 

though reporting having seen eighteen caribou, but 
out of range. 

Thursday October 18th. — Thermometer 52 ; threat- 
ning. Kep and the Kid, guided by Le Buffe, went 
down the marsh about three-quarters of a mile to what 
is known as the " lower lookout." These " lookouts " 
are certain trees which the guides have trimmed up in a 
convenient manner for climbing, and at some vantage 
point where a good view can be had of the marsh. 
The lower lookout consists of a scraggy pine about 
fifteen inches in diameter and some thirty feet high, 
standing in a point of timber in a somewhat elevated 
position. The guide would climb the tree, sit in a 
crotch formed by the trunk and a branch, and with a 
field glass he was enabled to scan the marsh from one 
side to the other, as well as a mile above and below. 
When he sighted the game, he invariably called out 
"Deer on the mash?" and when he had satisfied 
himself as to what lead they were likely to take, he 
slid down the tree like a cat, and keeping one of the 
many small islands scattered over the marsh between 
him and his quarry, he would bid the hunters follow 
and imitate his movements, which would consist of 
running, sneaking, walking and crawling in his en- 
deavors to intercept the game, in which he usually 
succeeded. 



150 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



The writer selected a point some five hundred yards 
in front of the cabin and about the middle of the 
marsh, near a well used trail, and which afterwards 
became known as "The Doctor's Blind," and is well 




THE DOCTOR'S BLIND. 



shown in the illustration. A tree had been blown 
down, leaving nothing but an upturned decayed root. 
By placing boughs in front and sticking others upright 
in the root, a first-class blind was made; and to make 
it perfect a temporary seat was added. 



FRESH MEAT PLENTIFUL. 151 

To return to the day's hunt the writer saw sixteen, 
killed a fine fat barren doe and wounded a young 
stag ; Kep killed a fine doe and the Kid killed a fair 
stag, with a good set of antlers, at a single shot — 
which was, by the way, the first member of the deer 
family he had ever shot at. They reported having 
seen twelve in all. 

All hands were in camp by 3 P. M., and it is need- 
less to say that thereafter fresh meat was plenty in 
camp, and the natives were "scaffiing," some for their 
winter's meat, which they took out with their dog 
sledges after the snow came and the streams and lakes 
were frozen over. 

It might be well to state here that the middle of 
October is about the height of the rutting season, and 
the old stags are not fit for food, their flesh being so 
musky that it is impossible to use it. 

Friday, October 19th. Thermometer 35 ; threatening. 
LeBuffe and the writer hunted west to what is known 
as Hamah's Lookout, two and a-half miles. We 
sighted but eight deer, and on our return to camp I 
shot a fine doe. Kep and Jimmy Goodyear (or, as 
he will be known hereafter, "Indian Jim") went still 
farther west, two and a-half miles, to what is called 
"Grandfather's Lookout." 

The Kid remained in camp and paid some atten- 



152 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

tion to the home marsh, but no deer passed. By the 
middle of the afternoon we were all in, and as the 
deer were not travelling it was an uneventful day. 

As reference has been made to Indian Jim acting 
as guide to Mr. Kepler, it is well to state that he is a 
character, and deserves more than passing notice. He 
is twenty-three years old, stands six feet in his moc- 
casins, straight as an arrow, and lithe as a catamount. 
He was born in the little cove where his father still 
resides, and is a child of nature, knowing little or 
nothing of the ways of civilization. Most of his life 
has been spent with the neighboring Micmac Indians, 
and from the time he could follow has accompanied 
them on their annual fall hunts for meat and hides ; 
and when older he spent his summers either alone or 
in company with one or two Indians, travelling- 
through the interior with gun, traps and provisions — 
the latter consisting mostly of tea and tobacco — in 
search of fur-bearing animals for their pelts. In his 
excursions he would often be absent from home six 
weeks or two months. If in a good locality and the 
tea or tobacco ran short, Jimmy would think nothing 
of travelling without a compass through the unbroken 
wilderness forty or fifty miles in search of the needful 
commodities. He can call the sly beaver to within a 
rod of his regulation muzzle-loading smoothe-bore gun, 



INDIAN JIM. 



153 



handle a canoe like an Esquimaux his kayak, and 
still hunt like a panther. In wood-craft he has noth- 
ing to learn, having practiced all its tricks from child- 
hood, including the incantations and superstitious 
ceremonies of his dark-skinned tutors ; and withal he 
is as gentle as a lamb, truthful and obedient. 

Saturday, October 20. Thermometer 32 ; windy and 
clear. Ice one-eighth inch thick, which is the first 




INDIAN JIM. 



11 



154 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

we have seen except in the shape of bergs on our way 
up the coast. The writer occupied the blind on the 
home marsh a short time in the forenoon, and an hour 
and a-half in the afternoon ; saw six deer, but as they 
were not ornamented with antlers they were allowed 
to pass, though within easy range. "The Kid" and 
Le Buffe went south a short distance, saw fourteen, 
had one shot but missed — a fine head. Indian Jim 
and Kep went west, saw three deer in short range, 
heads no good ; reserved fire. 

At first we were shooting for meat ; now as we must 
not shoot more than the eight allowed by law, it 
dawns upon us that none but representative heads 
must be shot at, or somebody will get left when the 
trophies come to be counted. Twenty-three seen in 
all to-day. 

Sunday, October 21st. Thermometer 32 ; cloudy and 
high wind. Moderated toward evening and began 
raining. All remained in camp to-day. But four 
deer passed the camp, two of them within range. 

Monday, October 22d. — Thermometer 37 ; misty. 
Kep and Le BufFe went down the marsh, saw eight 
deer and could have killed two. The Kid and Jimmy 
saw twenty-three, but did not shoot, though they filed 
past them within thirty yards. The writer saw three 
and could have killed two but did not. 



SELECTING REPRESENTATIVE HEAD. 155 

Tuesday, October 23d. — Thermometer 32 ; clear, 
The writer watched his blind in the morning, and 
saw but one deer which was in range but allowed to 
pass. In the afternoon went to South Hills near camp, 
and could have killed two does. Indian Jim and 
the Kid went south this morning and returned before 
noon, the Kid walking proudly and Indian Jim bend- 
ing under the weight of two immense antlered heads. 
As this was the Kid's red letter day the author will 
allow him to tell how it happened : 

"Jim was a few steps ahead, no deer were in sight 
from the Lower Lookout, and as the main lead to the 
South Hills opened into the Big Marsh just below the 
Lower Lookout tree, he swung his long right arm to 
the right, pointing down a little stream, as he said : 
'We walk half an hour, find big grandfather stag.' 
'All right, Jim, we will walk.' Half an hour later 
found us passing out of a little valley into a large 
marsh, or rather series of marshes. Just then three 
deer, all does, rounded a little point of woods. Jim 
crouched down on the marsh, and the deer came to- 
ward us at a slow walk until within seventy-five yards, 
when they began to be suspicious and halted. As we 
had plenty of meat and the deer had no antlers, I 
did not intend killing any, but was just admiring 
their sleek, round bodies when Jim's Indian instincts 



156 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

got the better of him and he whispered to me, ' Umph ! 
you only kill one deer. I like to have her to eat this 
winter ; nice, fat ' — at the same time pointing to a fine 
doe in the lead. 'Well, Jim, I'll try' — raising my 
gun as I spoke. The deer saw the movement and 
turned to flee, but it was too late ; the leaden messen- 
ger had found the fatal spot in the fore shoulder, and 
the doe rolled over. A few bounds and Jim was as- 
tride of her, and his long knife was letting her life- 
blood out. In a few moments the doe was disem- 
boweled and placed out of the reach of 'varmints,' 
where it Avould remain until the snow came, when Jim 
with his dogs and sled would transport it to his 
humble cabin nearly thirty miles distant. Soon we 
were on our way. 'Never mind,' says Jim; 'find big 
grandfather stag by-un-by.' We had not travelled 
more than fifty yards until Jim dropped to the ground, 
I doing the same; and trying to imitate the move- 
ments of a serpent we crawled into some bushes near 
by. Jim craned his long neck out, while I lay close 
to the ground and he counted ' one, two, three, four, 
five — fifteen — old grandfather stag behind. Wait.' 
Turning my head I could see the feet of the passing 
herd about fifty yards away. Suddenly Jim parted 
the bushes and said, ' there un big stag, sir.' Taking 
a quick but careful aim, I dropped him with a 



THE KID'S EED LETTER DAY. 157 

shot behind the shoulders. Twice he tried to rise, 
when Jim said, 'Shoot' gin, sir' which I did, 
and the second ball sent him to the happy hunt- 
ing grounds. This stag, which would have weighed 
at least 650 pounds, was the largest I killed, and had 
a magnificent head of horns. Jim ...soon had him 
turned bottom side up ready to dress, when looking 
up the marsh, half a mile distant I saw an immense 
stag with antlers like a brush heap. i Jim ! Jim ! ' I 
exclaimed — and away he ran, and I after him, 
through the woods, over a little marsh into another 
little woods, where we crawled up to a herd twenty- 
two in number. The deer were feeding, but soon be- 
came aware that something was near that boded no 
good and began to edge off, and as they advanced, 
kept looking back. I could have killed a doe several 
times, but I was after horns ; but to save me I could 
not get a shot at the old stag. At last they reached 
the open marsh and stood like frightened cattle. The 
old warrior turned broadside, and stepping on a rock 
near by, I raised on tip-toe, fired over the back of a doe, 
and had the satisfaction of seeing my stag drop dead. 
He had the largest antlers I secured. As we ran out 
on the marsh to claim our prize, the remainder of the 
herd ran off about a hundred yards and halted. A 
fine barren doe almost as white as snow took Jim's 



158 CAKIBOUJSHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




"KEP" KILLS THE WEONG DEER. 159 

eye, and he repeated his old story about winter's 
meat and buckskin for moccasins as he glanced from 
the doe to me. '< Him a fat un,' said he. Only three 
inches of the deer's shoulder was visible as she stood 
by the side of a tree. ' Jim, I might miss.' ■ No ; un 
gun shoot where un held. You an me find more big 
stag by-un-by.' Resting on one knee, I held just near 
the bark of the tree, and at the report of the gun the 
doe fell dead. I sat down on a rock watching Jim 
dress the deer, when all at once I heard a great racket 
in my rear. I sprang to my feet to find a herd of 
deer not twenty yards off on a full run ; in another 
instant they would have been over us. On seeing us 
they turned off, and there being no horns among 
them, they were allowed to go unmolested. I then 
looked at my watch and saw that in forty-five min- 
utes I had killed four deer and seen fifty-one." 

Kep and Le Buffe started for the Lower Lookout, 
and here the author will allow Kep to tell how he 
killed the wrong deer and missed adding a fine pair 
of antlers to his list of trophies : 

"About 11 A. M. we spied fifteen deer in one drove 
about half a mile distant, feeding and moving slowly 
around the point of a thickly wooded island. Le 
Buffe, who was perched high up on the tree, watched 
them very intently through the glass for quite a while, 



160 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

trying to make out the direction they were aiming for 
as they circled over the marsh. 'There's one awful 
big one, with dandy horns,' said Le Buffe, as he came 
down the tree like a streak of greased lightning and 
beckoned me to follow him as he ran down in the di- 
rection of the caribou, keeping well under cover and 
as near the edge of the marsh as possible till we got 
about halfway to them. We then had to cut across 
a small island in order to keep under cover and to 
Avindward of them. I was panting for breath by the 
time we got through the terrible thicket ; and there 
in full sight, only about a hundred yards distant, 
stooo. ^he whole flock in a bunch. ' Keep close to 
the ground and try to get a shot at that big fellow 
in the middle if you can,' whispered Le BufFe. 1 
wanted him badly, but he kept well in the centre of 
the herd, as they moved uneasily around as if they 
scented danger, and grouped in such a way that it 
was hard to get a shot at him. Several times I was 
on the point of pulling the trigger as he presented his 
head and neck above the others. 'What do you 
think?' said I to Le BufFe. 'Well, I would wait a bit: 
don't shoot till you get a good chance at his shoulders.' 
I was watching intently for that chance as the herd 
kept moving about and gradually getting a little fur- 
ther away from us, and I was getting extremely anx- 



"KEP" KILLS THE WKONG DEEK. 161 

ious, fearing that the monarch of the party might get 
away after all. Finally 1 caught a glimpse of his 
monstrous head as he moved a little to one side, and 
the next instant I glanced through the sights and fired 
at what I supposed was his big white shoulder. At 
the crack of the rifle Le Buffe jumped to his feet and 
shouted, ' You missed him — there he goes — try him 
again on the run ! ' I saw my mistake, and fired at 
him as he was pulling out with the rest of the herd, 
as they helterskeltered over the wet marsh at a tre- 
mendous gait, making the water fly as high as 
a two-story house in their mad flight ; but I only 
succeeded in wounding him slightly. We then 
took an inventory of what I had done with my 
first shot, and found that I had hit two caribou 
— one a large stag, but with comparatively small 
horns, and killed the other a doe. ' I am sorry the 
big one got away,' said the guide. I was so mortified 
at my loss and mistake that I don't think I spoke six 
words on our way back to the lookout. It was then 
about the middle of the day and Le Buffe 'biled the 
kittle.' After lunch he climbed the tree again, and a 
short time afterward we both noticed a little smoke 
curling through the trees at the head of a small island 
in the marsh, about three-quarters of a mile distant. 
Le Buffe discovered, with the aid of the glass, that it 






162 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




WM. PAUL. 



was our old friend Wm. Paul, the Micmac Indian, 
with two squaws and two half-grown boys, who were 
on the trail leading to their camp near by, and had 
stopped to take a rest and 'bile the kittle.' While 
Le Buffe was watching the Indians' actions I noticed 
two fine caribou on the marsh, moving directly to- 
wards old Paul and his party. 'Now,' said Le Buffe, 
'look sharp and we may see some fun.' Nearer and 



WILLIAM PAUL, THE MICMAC AND FAMILY. 



163 



nearer went the two deer toward the curling smoke, 
seeming not to notice till within fifty paces of it, when 
they both stopped with heads erect, and stood as 
if paralyzed at what they saw. The next instant 
I saw a little puff of smoke from old Paul's six-foot 
muzzle-loading gun, and a convulsive leap into 
the air by one of the deer followed by a loud re- 
port like blasting rocks. 'There, he has wounded 




WM, PAUL'S SISTER. 



164 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

one of them and scared the other almost to death/ 
said 1 Le Buffe. 'Yes,' he continued, 'it is try- 
ing hard to get to its feet again, but can't.' In the 
meantime Paul loaded his old gun and fired another 
slug into the wounded animal ; then the whole party 
broke cover, and with an Indian yell of triumph ran 
out to the fallen deer, which was still trying hard to 
rise as the Indians surrounded it. ' Thud ! Thud ! 
Poonk ! Poonk ! ' came a peculiar sound over the 
marsh, while they kept up their infernal yelling. 
' What are they doing now ? ' I asked Le Buffe ( who 
could see every move they made, owing to his eleva- 
ted position and having the field glass.) ' Oh, the 
dirty old heathen is mauling it to death with the butt 
of his old musket,' he replied, as he slid down the 
tree ; ' come let us go down and see what they are 
doing.' By the time we got there they had the hide 
almost off, and so intent were they on their work that 
they scarcely noticed our presence, as each one pulled 
and tugged at it wherever they could get a hold, chat- 
tering all the while like a flock of crows. We re- 
mained to see them dress the deer and cook the 
dainty bits of offal, consisting of the ' bombgut ' or 
rectum and the marrow bones — the latter having 
been roasting over the hot coals since they were cut 
off, and the boys were soon quarreling as they cracked 



WILLIAM PAUL, THE MICMAC AND FAMILY. 165 

them between stones, each fearing that one might get 
a morsel more than the other. Old Paul and the 
squaws were gorging themselves from the contents 
of the kettle, which contained scraps of offal scarcely 
warmed through. We declined a very cordial in- 
vitation to take a snack with them, on general prin- 
ciples, and compromised the matter by furnishing 
them with sufficient ' backy ' to fill their pipes all 
round. On the way up the marsh I had an oppor- 
tunity of killing a fine two-year-old stag, but as my 
ideas of antlers had enlarged very materially, and his 
were small, I allowed him to go on his way undis- 
turbed. We proceeded to the lookout, where we had 
been but a few minutes when the " Kid " and Indian 
Jim came round the point from the South Hills. The 
latter had on his broad shoulders two beautiful heads. 
'Aha! I see you have had good luck,' said I. 'Oh, 
yes,' replied the Kid, with a beaming countenance, ' I 
never had so much fun in all my life ! We saw fifty- 
one caribou, and I killed four of them — two big stags 
and two fat does. ' We are the champions now, and 
and don't you forget it, ' said Indian Jim with a satis- 
fied look as he filled his pipe. After congratulations 
all around, we pulled out for the cabin." 

We had a big day, as the party saw eighty-four deer 
in all ; and as the Kid Avas the hero, we were obliged 



166 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

to give him plenty of elbow room at the supper table, 
to make up the bunk without his assistance, and to 
yield him several inches more space in it for the night. 
And as Indian Jim's spirits were at high tide, he en- 
tertained us far into the night with accounts of his 
life and adventures with the Micmacs — how they 
lived, cooked, slept, hunted, trapped, danced, married, 
fought, worshipped, buried the dead, etc., and how he 
himself had hunted the great deer, beaver, seals, otter, 
owls, grouse, foxes, bears and wolves — the flesh of all 
of which he declared to be good to eat " if a man was 
hungry." 

Wednesday, October 24-th. Thermometer 30; clear. 
As Indian Jim desired to complete the "seaming" of 
the two fat does killed by the Kid yesterday, the 
writer went with him. Saw seven and could have 
killed three, but as they were does and stags with com- 
paratively small antlers, the opportunities were al- 
lowed to pass with the deer. Returned to camp by 
late dinner time ; and as Martin Williams had com- 
pleted skinning out the Kid's two stag heads, and the 
curing of the skins fell to the writer's lot, they were 
attended to during the afternoon. 

Here it might be well to state that the skinning 
out of the head of one of these great deer is quite a 
task, and great care and judgment must be exercised, 



CUEING THE SPECIMENS. 167 

or when the specimen comes to be mounted it will be 
impossible for the taxidermist to do justice to the sub- 
ject. Martin Williams, with a little instruction as to 
the nose and ears, became very expert, and would be 
worth more than his wages for that purpose alone. 
Even after the head skin is off it is no small job to 
clean the skull properly. The brain must be thor- 
oughly removed, as well as every particle of flesh, and 
the cavity of the nostrils must be well swabbed out. 
After all this has been attended to the salt, alum and 
arsenic mixture used in curing the skins should be 
applied and the specimen placed in as dry a place as 
the accommodations afford, with a free circulation of 
air. In the curing of the head skins the writer uses 
the following mixture, which gives the very best re- 
sults in any cimate : 

Fine salt 6 ounces. 

Pulverized alum 2 ounces. 

Arsenic 1 ounce. 

Mix well. 

As soon as the skin has been removed from the 
animal, or before it has become dry, rub the powder 
into the flesh side well, being very careful to see that 
it has been well applied to the very edges of the skin, 
as well as the lips, eyelids and the everted ears. After 
every portion has been gone over and well rubbed in, 



168 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

fold the skin together in such a manner that the flesh 
sides shall come in contact, then roll tightly together 
and secure the bundle with twine. The skin is then 
ready to be packed away, one roll against another, and 
better on the ground, covering the whole well with 
green boughs. In forty-eight hours open them up, 
hang them in the shade, but where they get a free 
circulation of air, and in fair dry weather the skins 
will be dry and can safely be packed in bales, and 
when the taxidermist or tanner relaxes them the hair 
will be found tight and the pelt in first-class condi- 
tion. Out of the twenty-one head skins brought out 
by our party, there was not a square inch of hair 
slipped. 

Kep, the Kid and Le Buffe spent part of the day 
at the Lower Lookout, sighting seven deer, but as they 
were not the kind they were looking for, they were 
not disturbed. 

Thursday, October 25th. Thermometer 35; clear 
and windy. The writer having sprained his ankle 
yesterday, did not get farther than the blind across 
the marsh. Saw four deer killing a fine stag with 
fair antlers under the following circumstances : The 
deer were feeding along slowly with the wind, just 
right, one path of the trail passing within twenty feet 
of the blind. The deer were slow in coming up, which 



KILLING AT TWENTY FEET. 169 

gave ample opportunity to examine the stag's antlers 
with the glass, and the same time to arrive at the con- 
clusion that he was not wanted. As he approached 
still nearer, and when within about fifty yards of the 
blind, it was noticed that he took the trail which 
passed within twenty feet of it. The temptation 
was too great, and he lost his life by exciting a 
desire in the heart of the hunter to kill a wild cari- 
bou at twenty feet, and find out whether at such 
short range the ball would pass through the animal. 
When directly opposite the blind the trigger was 
pressed. The ball, 40-65 Winchester, passed in be- 
tween two ribs just back of the point of the fore- 
shoulder on the left side, passing through and striking 
the centre of the rib on the opposite side, which 
it failed to break. See Illustration, Fig. 3. Fig. 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 

BULLETS. 



12 



170 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

1 passed through both shoulder blades of a large 
stag v at a distance of three hundred paces, and was 
found lodged against the skin. Fig. 2 passed through 
between two ribs, struck an opposite rib breaking it 
at a distance of 150 paces. 

Kep and Le Buffe were north of the camp part of 
the day and killed a barren doe with fine head. The 
Kid and Jimmy were south, and killed a stag and 
barren doe. 

Friday, October 26th. Thermometer 45 ; cloudy in 
the morning, but cleared up soon, and became a 
beautiful bright day. We had now been in the hunt 
ten days, and had secured some fine heads, but not all 
we desired. By this time Kep was getting in fine 
shape for hunting, and seemed more like the same 
" Black Fox" of years ago when Ave made many a 
tramp together, when game was plenty in the western 
counties of Pennsylvania. 

The programme for the day's hunt was outlined the 
day before. Kep and Le BufYe were to get an early 
start and make a reconnoitering tour to " Grand- 
father's Lookout," and if possible push farther into 
the White Hills, as we were all extremely anxious to 
secure fine large stag heads, as well as three antlered 
cows. The Kid and writer were to remain at the 
main camp and keep watch over the passers-by. Our 



KEP'S EED LETTER DAY. 171 

end of the line did not pan out well, as not a deer was 
sighted ; but Kep and Le Buffe had 

A EED LETTER DAY. 

And here is the way Kep tells it: " We took a dif- 
ferent route to reach the hills, and saw on our way up 
quite a number of caribou, as we circled round 
through the 'Big Marsh,' thick wooded islands and 
small lakes, and could have killed a number of 
them ; but nothing suited us. About noon we stopped 
to 'bile the kittle,' and enjoy our tea, sea-biscuit and 
cold venison as only hungry hunters in a bracing at- 
mosphere and after a long tramp can. As we were 
enjoying our snack, Le BufFe ever on the alert, saw a 
very large stag alone about three-quarters of a mile 
distant, feeding by the side of a small lake. As we 
observed him through the glass, Ave discovered that 
he had a fine head, just such as we were looking for; 
but the great trouble was to get within gun-shot, as 
there was little available cover, and the wind was 
against us. We succeeded, however, in getting within 
250 yards of him without much trouble, and then 
crawled through the wet marsh grass about seventy- 
five yards further. Here even the grass was absent, 
and I was obliged to try a long shot. After recover- 
ing my wind a little after the sneak and crawl, I 



172 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

took very careful aim, and as the rifle cracked the 
great animal made a lunge forward and fell dead. Of 
course I felt elated, and Le Buffe put his big hand in 
mine, congratulating me on the fine shot and the 
beautiful trophy. 

" After skinning him, Le Buffe shouldered the head 
and hide, and we proceeded on our way toward the 
height of land or what is known as the Barrens. 
When we reached 'Hanah's Lookout' we rested, and 
left the head until our return. We were about two 
and a-half miles west of our cabin, but there was still 
a higher point about two miles distant in the direction 
of the famous ■ Topsails,' which if we could reach it 
would afford us a magnificent view of the country, 
and put us in the very heart of the best hunting 
grounds. We pushed on and arrived at our destina- 
tion, "Grandfather's Lookout," about 3 P. M. It was 
a beautiful sight as we stood on this high ledge of 
rocks overlooking the high tableland in the heart of 
the rolling moss covered 'White Hills.' A short dis- 
tance westward were the three Topsail peaks, looming 
up like great castles or icebergs in the clear atmos- 
phere. North and south, the unique gray hills as far 
as the eye could see, and to the eastward, we could 
look down on the many wooded islands and small 
lakes dotted over the great marshes, Barney's Brook, 



BA.TTLE OF THE STAGS. 173 

West Pond, and the ' tickles' leading into the bay at 
Pilley's Island. 

" But near us to the eastward, within a mile, 
was to me a much more interesting picture. On the 
plain below us were more than a hundred caribou, 
moving about among the little moss-covered knolls, 
rocks and tufts of scraggy evergreens of fir and juniper. 
As I brought my field-glass to bear upon the scene, I 
beheld a picture which I shall never forget. About 
half a mile down the slope, in a small open marsh, 
were at least fifty caribou gathered in a crowd, and 
right in the centre Avas a battle royal between several 
great stags for supremacy and possession of the favored 
does. The battle seemed to be waged principally 
against one great kingly-looking fellow with magnifi- 
cent antlers. The does with their fawns and the year- 
lings (prickets) and younger stags had apparently 
formed a ring or circle around the half-dozen or more 
fierce combatants in their great struggle for the sur- 
vival of the fittest — the does venturing in near them 
now and then seemingly to encourage the fighters by 
their presence. The clashing of their horns could be 
easily heard as they plunged and reared at each other 
in deadly strife. The weaker gradually succumbed 
one by one and were eventually driven off, leaving 
the 'king' master of the situation. But his glory was 



174 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

destined to be short lived ; little did he know that 
there was danger near, and that his kingly head should 
soon fall, as a specimen and trophy of the noblest of 
his kind. It was now quite late in the afternoon, and 
as we were about five miles from camp as the raven 
flies, and several more by the roundabout way we were 
obliged to take to reach our cabin, Le Buffe thought it 
was too late to begin shooting ; the weather was mild, 
and the deer would not travel ; better go to camp and 
return in the morning with the whole outfit, put up 
a temporary camp, and remain until we had filled 
out our string of heads allowed by law. But what 
sportsman could turn his back on such a picture with- 
out making an attempt to secure the head of the king? 
I suggested that we should try for it, even at the risk 
of camping out. This was easier said than done, as 
there were several small groups of deer between us 
and the herd in which he was presiding, and many 
sharp eyes and noses to be feared. Le Bufte was fear- 
ful that if they should detect us either by sight or 
scent we might stampede the whole party and lose all, 
though he was willing to make the effort. 

"We started out very cautiously, creeping through 
the low cover and keeping as well to windward of 
them as possible, gradually getting nearer the point of 
attack. When within about 400 yards we thought 



BATTLE OF THE STAGS. 



175 




KEPLER AND THE KING. 



all was lost, as a big stag close by, which had been 
whipped, discovered us and created quite a disturb- 
ance by his loud grunts as he kept trotting back- 
wards and forwards from group to group, trying to 
give the alarm ; but as there was another fight on be- 



176 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Ioav him, the main herd's attention was attracted to 
that, and no stampede occurred just then. From this 
point forward the cover was so light that we had to 
worm along very close to the ground part of the way, 
through water and muck, regardless of wet knees and 
elbows ; but finally succeeded in getting within about 
225 paces of the 'king;' but here the cover ended and 
our position on sloping ground exposed us to the deer, 
and I was obliged to try my hand again at long range. 
I raised the sights for the estimated distance as well 
as I could, and as I was lying down, took very careful 
aim from an elbow rest, military style. I fired,, 
and as the rifle cracked I saw that the ball had 
struck him too far back ; it seemed to make him per- 
fectly ferocious, as he crippled around in the herd with 
a broken thigh, still holding the fort against all comers. 
He soon turned a broadside, and I fired again with 
better results; he made a few wicked lunges in the 
direction of one of his late rivals, and fell dead. We 
then broke cover and ran down to where the fallen 
hero lay ; and strange to say, the herd seemed to be 
panic-stricken at the downfall of their leader — some 
of them trotting around close by, and others standing 
as if paralyzed within easy shot. Just then I noticed 
a large stag standing about eighty yards off with a 
magnificent head of antlers. I shot him down in 



THE "KING. 



177 




THE " KING." 



178 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

his tracks. At this stage of the game all seemed to 
be in confusion, as the deer did not seem to know 
what the shooting meant. As Le Buffe did not carry 
a gun, to keep out of my way and out of sight of the 
game he had taken shelter behind a large rock about 
the size of an old fashioned Pennsylvania bake-oven 
(such as our ancestors used), about 200 yards from 
where I was doing the shooting. Here he almost 
came to grief, as he was attacked by a fierce caribou 
with most vicious horns. His cry for help attracted 
my attention just in time to save him, as the mad- 
dened beast Avas grunting and charging at him as he 
was running round and round the rock. I ran down 
to within about twenty yards of the circus, when the 
enraged animal caught sight of me and immediately 
squared off to give me battle on open ground, and 
looked as if he asked no favor under the circum- 
stances. But I had him well covered with the rifle, 
and called out to Le Buffe to lie flat behind the rock 
as I was going to shoot. Just as the great savage deer 
lowered his head to make a rush at me, I fired a ball 
into his breast, and he fell dead within six feet of Le 
Buffe — who is a brave man and used to danger, but 
at this moment was as white as a sheet as he again 
took me by the hand. 

"This over, and before we had time to consider what 



THE "'KING." 179 

next, we noticed a flock of about a dozen deer a short 
distance off, coming directly towards us. Half of 
them were stags, with good horns and beautiful white 
necks. We lay down behind the dead fighter, and in 
a few seconds the leader was within thirty feet of us ; 
and as they paraded by I picked out the one with the 
finest horns and let him down. The rest ran off a 
short distance, circled around, and stopped within 
easy gunshot. This last shot completed my eight 
stags and three female caribou, allowed by law; and 
the only regret I had was that the Doctor and the Kid 
were not with us. It was now 4 P. M. and we hur- 
riedly disemboweled the deer and struck for camp, 
anxious to cover as much of the distance as possible 
before darkness covered that part of the earth's sur- 
face. Unfortunately Ave had the worst part of the 
trail to go over last, and night caught us too soon. 
Several times we lost our course ; and as the trail was 
over the marsh, which is very treacherous, we had a 
sorry time of it. It was impossible to tell the differ- 
ence between a puddle of water and a stone, but at 
last we did reach camp, Avet, hungry and foot-sore, 
but not tired — on ! no, not after such a day's sport — 
but in fine shape to get outside of a big supper which 
Pap Goodyear had waiting for us. After supper Ave 
recounted the incidents of the day. I Avrote up my 



180 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

notes, we planned the next clay's hunt, and retired to 
pleasant dreams." 

It is hardly necessary to say that Kep, like the Kid 
after his red-letter day, required extra cover, bunk- 
room and waiting on. Over a hundred deer seen 
to-day. 

Saturday, October 27th. Thermometer 40 ; some fog 
on marsh. As prearranged last night, Le BufFe, In- 
dian Jim, Kep, the Kid and the writer made an early 
start for the scene of yesterday's hunt, prepared with 
tent, provisions and cooking utensils, to remain over 
night or longer if need be. The Kid was entitled to 
one stag more, and the writer to four. By 10:30 A. M. 
we were at "Grandfather's Lookout," selected a camp- 
ing place, and while Indian Jim put up the tent we 
" biled the kittle," roasted some venison on the ends 
of sticks and got ourselves in shape for the missing 
specimens. Before we were through, however, with 
our impromptu meal, Le BufFe with two smoking 
ribs in his fist had gone a few yards above us where a 
better view could be had, and soon sung out, "Deer 
on the ma'sh," when we all advanced to where he 
was, and sure enough there on a hillside, all of a mile 
distant, was a herd of some thirty-five or forty, string- 
ing along unconscious of danger. We were on the top 
of the height of land on one side of a depression or 



THE DOCTOR MAKES A LONG SHOT. 181 

scoop-out, while they were on the opposite side ; and 
as there was scarcely any cover on either, it required 
considerable engineering to get even within long 
range. From where we Avere it was impossible to de- 
termine how many stags were among them, or the 
size and character of their antlers. There was only 
one point near the edge of the marsh where two or 
three small evergreens were standing, which if one 
could reach it might afford a chance for a shot if the 
deer kept moving on parallel with the opposite crest 
of the ridge, provided we were not scented or seen. 

After looking the situation over carefully, Le Buffe 
and the writer began the approach by taking advan- 
tage of everything in the shape of cover which it was 
possible to use; and after a tedious and circuitous 
route we at last reached the evergreen trees. As the 
deer were feeding along very slowly, and were un- 
conscious of our presence, we had ample time to ex- 
amine them carefully through the glass before they 
came to a point opposite us. We were not long in 
selecting from among some half dozen stags the one 
which appeared to have the best pair of antlers, and 
was the nearest to us. There was a large bowlder 
which looked as if it had been at some time dropped 
by an iceberg about opposite where we were, and we 
calculated the distance to be between 275 and 300 



182 CAEIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

yards. The stag was or seemed to be walking directly 
for v the rock, and feeling confident that he would 
walk up to within a few feet of it and stop, we de- 
cided to try him at that point. True to his instinct, 
and our surmises based upon previous observation, he 
did stop, and gazed curiously and intently at the 
rock. I brought the crosshairs to bear on a point 
just back of his fore shoulder, pressed the trigger, and 
had the satisfaction of seeing him squat. Le Buffe 
said, "You hit him all right, but low." The deer 
turned to the right and walked about twenty-five 
yards away from us, lay down, but immediately got 
up and stood broadside. "Give him another, or he 
will get away," said the guide; "hold a little higher 
on him this time." As my gun was still resting on 
the limb of the juniper, I soon had the crosshairs cov- 
ering a spot on his white side about two inches below 
the top of his wither, and almost simultaneously with 
the report of the gun the great deer dropped on both 
knees and rolled over, dying before we reached him. 
On our way to where he lay we both counted our 
steps, and as it was slightly down grade, they would 
average fully three feet. The guide counted 296 
steps to where he got the first shot, and the writer 
had 290; and we both counted twenty-five steps to 
where he got his last ball. This was good shooting, 



THE DOCTOE MAKES A LONG SHOT. 183 

and with the writer would have been an impossibility 
without the aid of a rest and the telescope sight. 

Thus far all was very satisfactory; but when we 
came to examine the antlers of our stag we were mor- 
tified to find the right brow antler broken off, which 
rendered the specimen useless. We quickly removed 
his hide and retraced our steps to Grandfather's Look- 
out, to find the rest of our party gone, we knew not 
where. But inasmuch as it was not our party we 
were looking for, we at once brought the glass to 
focus on the landscape below us, and soon located an- 
other herd of caribou. We were sure Kep and the 
Kid were on the slope somewhere, though farther 
west of us. They could, as we afterwards learned, see 
us as well as the deer, and knew from our actions we 
had also sighted the quarry — in fact, they saw us enter 
the thick growth of trees which covered the slope 
for some distance below the highest point. The deer 
were coming up the slope at an angle and in open 
ground, in the direction of where Kep and the Kid 
were lying flat on their bellies, expecting that in case 
we did not get a chance at the stag, which from all 
appearances had the finest head of any we had thus 
far seen or killed, they might stop him as he was 
coming their way. 

The herd was scattered about promiscuously, while 



184 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

the stag would walk slowly along for twenty-five 
or thirty yards, then stop for two or three minutes 
apparently to rest, paying no attention to his sur- 
roundings. In the meantime we had succeeded in 
getting to the edge of the cover just as he stopped on 
a little hummock, with his great white broadside to- 
ward us. I had just time to get the cross lines located 
by quick work, fearing that he would start again, and 
thereby induce our friends to shoot in case they were 
in range. At the report of the gun he twitched, shook 
his massive head, turned square round to the right, 
and walked briskly down the hill about two rods, 
when he stopped, offering a quartering shot, which he 
got promptly — the second ball entering his right side 
just back of his right front leg, and lodging just under 
the skin at the point of the left shoulder, breaking 
him down. Distance, 150 yards. As soon as he fell 
the two concealed hunters broke cover and came run- 
ning at full speed, shouting like Comanches after a 
successful ambush. After the post mortem the jury 
agreed without a dissenting voice upon the following 
verdict : 

1st. That the deceased had the largest and finest 
head they had ever seen. 

2d. That he would weigh not less than 600 pounds. 

3d. That he had a just right to the title of 



THE "EMPEROK.' 



185 



"THE EMPEROR," (See back cover). 

and that kings and other potentates were beneath him 
in all respects, and likely to remain there. Here are 
his antler measurements : 

Length of right beam from hair to tip 42 Inches. 

Length of left beam from hair to tip 41 \ 

Tip to tip 321 

Spread, centre to centre 37f 

Circumference of right beam at hair 6 

Circumference of left beam at hair 6^ 



.47 



Points on right horn 32 ^ 

Points on left horn 15 ) 

Breadth of right palm 1\ 

Breadth of left palm 6^ 

Circumference of entire rack 11 feet 9 

Diameter of space occupied by rack.. 4 " 



Several old Indian and Newfoundland hunters who 
saw this head were unanimous in the opinion that 
they had never seen a more perfect or larger one ; and 
the writer is free to say that he believes it is to-day 
the largest and most perfect woodland caribou head 
in America, basing his opinion on specimens carefully 
examined wherever an opportunity was offered, in- 
cluding those at the Columbian Exposition and the 
Sportsman's Exhibition recently held in Madison 
Square Garden, New York. 

13 



186 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




LE BUFFE AND THE EMPEROR. 



Le Buffe and the writer took careful measurements 
of the "Emperor," as well as several photographic nega- 
tives, when we removed the skin and carried it to the 
Lookout while the Kid, coached by Kepler, slipped 
up upon and killed a very fine, unusually white stag 
which they found feeding in an open or clear patch 
in a clump of jack-pines, not more than a mile from 
our temporary camp. This completed his score, and 
he was well satisfied with his first attempt at large 
game shooting, as the walls of his residence in Bur- 
lington, N. J., will finely illustrate, and where all 
sportsmen will be heartily welcomed by "The Kid." 



OUR QUOTA NEARLY KILLED. 



187 



Sunday, October 28th. Thermometer 35 ; high 
wind from west. Started to complete skinning out 
the deer, cleaning up the heads and carrying them to 
the Lookout ready for the carriers, who were expected 
in the morning. Sighted a herd of deer, coming on 
the main trail, which passed through the opening 
where most of our specimens in this section were 
killed. Le Buffe and the writer succeeded in reach- 
ing a scrubby cedar near where the deer crossed the 
water-way which separated the open slope from the 
barren hills further west. 




-1 ■■ .'; ' : £ i 



M^. - jta^^mi 



THE FEET OF THE EMPEROR. 



188 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 





THE AUTHOR AND HIS PRIZE, THE EMPEROR. 



We had just dropped on our knees when the does 
and young stags began to file past within thirty yards 
of us, and as usual an old stag brought up the rear in 
company with a fine antlered doe separating j us t be- 
fore they came up — the stag passing to our left about 



PREPARING TROPHIES FOR TRANSPORTATION. 189 

thirty yards and the doe about the same distance to 
the right, where most of the herd had just passed. 
They walked slowly along, stopping every now and 
then, and as they approached to a point nearly on a 
line with us we could examine their antlers carefully, 
Le Buffe examining the stag on the left, while the 
writer scrutinized the doe on the right. Both had 
perfect antlers; in short, they were just what we 
wanted. When this was decided I covered care- 
fully the stag on my left, fired and killed, then 
swung my gun round to my right and before the 
doe could recover from her surprise I had made a 
double and both of the magnificent deer were dead 
almost at our feet. We broke cover and the rest of 
the herd galloped off at a rate that would do credit 
to a broncho under a cowboy. 

The balance of the day was spent in getting our 
trophies in shape for the carriers, who were expected 
in the morning at an early hour. 

' Monday, October 29th. Thermometer 30; windy. 
As the principal actor in a drama is not the best 
judge of the play, the writer will give way to Mr. 
Kepler's notes of the day : 

" Morning crisp and cold, and made our blood 
tingle as we broke quarter-inch ice and washed in the 
little pond just below our temporary camp. While 



190 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



"biling the kittle" we spied a big stag, and as the 
Doctor was entitled to one stag more, he and Le Buffe 
went out to the marsh after him. They intercepted 
him all right, but as all heads were now measured by 
the " Emperor's" he was allowed to pass by. After 
finishing breakfast we concluded to pack up and re- 
turn to our main camp, and make ready to turn our 




LEAVING GRANDFATHER S LOOKOUT. 



LEAVING GRANDFATHER'S LOOKOUT. 191 

faces toward salt water. Williams and Sanders had 
just arrived to help carry out, and after all hands had 
loaded up with all they thought they could carry, we 
got under way about 10 A. M., strung out in regular 
Indian fashion, headed for the Big Marsh — frequently 
stopping on the way to rest, talk and live over the 
great sport we had enjoyed in the locality we had just 
left. 

"When about halfway to camp and just as we 
were rounding a point of one of the man}^ wooded 
islands in the marsh, Indian Jim, who was in the lead, 
threw down his pack, dropped to his knees, and sung 
out, 'Oh! I see deer.' And there in full view, about 
300 yards distant, was a herd of about thirty. Some 
were lying down, others feeding, and a few seemingly 
on the alert for danger — notably several barren does. 
Among them were two fine stags, one with a beauti- 
ful pair of antlers towering above the rest as they 
gleamed in the bright sunlight. As there were seven 
of us in the party we had to be particularly careful 
not to attract their attention ; so we quickly crawled 
into the edge of a little thicket close by for cover. 
'Who wants a stag?' said Le Buffe. 'I do,' said the 
Doctor ; ' you and the Kid take cover to the right, get 
below them, and I will shoot the best one as they run 
past us.' 'Follow me close, then,' said Le Buffe, and 



192 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

the two started on a circle, while we all stood within 
a few feet of each other and enjoyed watching the 
hunters and game from our concealment. They had 
good cover most of the way, and fair footing, but in 
order to get within fair range had to do some close 
work; but finally they succeeded in worming them- 
selves through the marsh and chaparral to the edge 
of cover nearest the deer. 

"At this juncture we noticed that the big stag sus- 
pected something wrong, as he tossed his head in the 
air and faced the point from which we expected to 
see smoke followed by a report of the Kid's gun. 'If 
John shoots at that fellow and misses him, and he 
comes this way, I will down him sure — see if I 
don't,' said the Doctor, as he settled himself and 
fondled his Winchester. A moment later the Kid 
fired and scored a miss. Instantly the whole herd 
were in motion and on the alert ; but not sure from 
whence the noise came they appeared uncertain as to 
what direction to run ; but another shot and another 
miss put them in a full run, and as was supposed 
right in our direction. 'Now,' said the Doctor, 'I 
will show him he can't fool with me like he did with 
the Kid.' 

"What a beautiful sight, as they rushed past at full 
speed about eighty yards distant, in the open marsh. 



EXHIBITION STAG. 



193 




EXHIBITION STAG. 



194 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

'Here he comes!' was shouted by all. Bang! went 
the Doctor's gun, and down went the stag; but up 
again in an instant and under way with the rest of 
the herd. Bang! again went the rifle, and down he 
went promptly as before ; but full of game, the noble 
animal struggled to his feet, but only had time to 
make a few wicked jumps when the Doctor hit him 
the third time, the ball passing through his spine. 
All present agreed that it was the finest exhibition of 
rifle marksmanship in the field they had ever seen, 
and congratulations were the order of the day." 

We secured the beautiful head of the "Exhibition 
Stag," and took up our line of march for camp, where 
we arrived in good shape before night, well satisfied 
with our trip to Grandfather's Lookout. 

Tuesday, October 30th. Thermometer 25; windy. 
To-day all hands busy skinning out heads and get- 
ting them ready for transportation. Sent two car- 
riers out to head of West Pond with heavy loads of 
heads, antlers and head skins, topped off with such 
articles of household and kitchen furniture as we 
could spare. These faithful men left camp with their 
heavy loads about sunrise, and returned to camp just 
at dark the same day. 

Wednesday, October 31st. Thermometer 32; clear. 
All busy taking care of our trophies. No hunting 



KEPLER'S SPECIMENS. 



195 



done, though quite a number of deer were seen cross- 
ing the Big Marsh. This was a charming day. 

Thursday, November 1st. Thermometer 32; clear. 
As the writer was entitled to one more doe, and was 
desirous of securing a fawn if possible to complete his 




KEPLER'S SPECIMENS. 



family of reindeer, viz., "The Emperor," cow, "Ex- 
hibition Stag," and five-months' old calf — all hands 
took a walk to the South Hills, where the Kid and 
Indian Jim had their red-letter day, where the author 
fortunately killed a fawn which completed his family 
of specimens as shown on front cover page. We 
found where a large bear had eaten half of one of the 



196 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




BACK TO SALT WATER. 197 

stags killed by the Kid, and had dragged the great 
deer several feet, showing that he must have been of 
good size. The conditions were very favorable for a 
forty-pound trap and about three days' time which 
without doubt would have furnished some more sport 
and a fine pelt. 

Friday, November 2d. Thermometer 32; clear. 
Sent the carriers out with three loads. All hands 
working on skins and heads, getting ready to go out 
on Sunday. Scattered deer in sight all day. "Deer 
on the ma'sh" causes no excitement now; three 
weeks ago things were different. Then every fellow 
grabbed his gun, got the other fellows' boots or shoes 
on, and ran with bated breath to the edge of cover. 

Sunday, November 4th. Thermometer 35 ; raining, 
but cleared off beautifully, and at 9 A. M., after cach- 
ing the stove and most of our kitchen furniture, we 
bade adieu to our camp on the Big Marsh and turned 
our faces toward salt water, arriving at our cache one 
and a-half miles west of the head of West Pond at 4 
P. M., where we camped for the night. 

Monday, November 5th. Thermometer 33; windy. 
Left camp at 8.30 A. M., and soon reached the head 
of West Pond with whole outfit. Owing to the high 
Avind, the water was so rough that we were detained 
about two hours, regarding the trip hazardous with 



198 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 




HUGGING THE SOUTH SHORE OF WEST POND. 




STUCK ON THE ROCKS AT DEVILS ELBOW. 



NO MAIL FROM HOME. 199 

our heavily-laden canoes. Finally made the foot of 
the pond in safety by hugging the south shore, and 
after experiencing some difficulty at the "Devil's El- 
bow," on AVest Pond Brook between the foot of the 
pond and the head of Hall's Bay, arriving at our 
guide's cabin at 3 P. M. 

Here we met a disappointment at not receiving let- 
ters from home, which confirmed our suspicions as to 

MISTAKE NO. 5. 

From some correspondence had with a Mr. White, 
mail agent between Whitbourne and the terminus of 
the railroad, we were induced to cause our mail to be 
directd to his care, supposing that there was a mail 
route from Norris' Arm, via. Pilley's Island, to the 
Hall's Bay postoffice, and that we would thus receive 
mail as often as we could send out to the head of the 
bay. In consequence of this mistake, we had no 
word from home from the day we sailed until our 
return. Our folks had telegrams from us, however, 
from Halifax, St. John's and Pilley's Island on our 
way north, and on our return to Pilley's Island on 
our homeward journey. 

Sportsmen visiting this country will do well to be- 
ware of inducements held out to go via. the railroad 
from St. John's. If fine sport and large antlers are 



200 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

desired, "follow your leader and fear no danger." 
Take the Silvia at New York direct for Pilley's Is- 
land. Have your mail matter directed in care of 
Richard Le Buffe, to Hall's Bay P. O., Wolf Cove, 
Notre Dame Bay, N. F., and Mrs. Brown, the affable 
postmistress, and her daughters will as opportunity 
offers send them to Mr. Le Buffe's ranch, where they 
can be called for by the carriers as they have occasion 
to return to the cache at the head of West Pond. Ar- 
rangements can also be made with Mr. Herbert, the 
gentlemanly postmaster at Pilley's, to send any im- 
portant telegrams to the camp on the Big Marsh. 
The telegraph office for this section is not at Pilley's, 
but a few miles further north, at Little Bay Mine, 
and ten words cost $1.75 to Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. 
Tuesday, November 6th. Thermometer 3 1 ; threaten- 
ing. Le BufFe, Indian Jim and the writer left at an 
early hour for Wolf Cove, six miles up the bay, in a 
small rowboat, to secure a sailing yacht to convey us to 
Pilley's Island ; while Kep and the Kid unpacked the 
head skins, verified the tags or labels on each and ar- 
ranged them in, over and about Le Buffe's storehouse, 
which stood on the edge of the bank fronting the cabin. 
In this connection it might be well to state that it is im- 
portant that every specimen should be carefully 
marked and numbered, and for that purpose the wri- 



HOW TO PACK SPECIMENS. 



201 






CURING THE HIDES AND HEADS AT LE BUFFE S STOREHOUSE. 



ter was prepared with good strong paper tags with 
eyelets, similar to those used by express companies 
and general shippers of merchandise. These tags if 
plainly marked with a lead pencil, will resist moisture 
much better than ink, and no difficulty will be ex- 
perienced from getting the specimens mixed up. We 
returned by 3 P. M., with the yacht, in a storm of 
rain and wind; and in consequence of this there was 
but little accomplished except securing a means of 
transportation up the bay to Pilley's Island. 

14 



202 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Wednesday November 7th. Thermometer 32; blow- 
ing" a terrific gale from the northwest all day. Man- 
aged to load some of our plunder ; but as the water 
was so wild that it was with difficulty that we kept 
the yacht from dragging her anchors, the idea of 
sailing was abandoned until the storm was abated. 

Thursday, November 8th. Thermometer 32; clear 
and pleasant. As the troubled waters had subsided, 
we set sail at an early hour and arrived at Pilley's at 
12 M., in good shape, where we were welcomed by 
Mr. Herbert, with whom we engaged quarters until 
our ship should sail. After settling with our yacht 
captain and the hands necessary to run the same, we 
found that the whole bill footed up $30.00 — just 
$20.00 more than it should have cost us, had we done 
as it is to be hoped others will, viz., engage Capt. 
Colburn to meet them at the head of Hall's Bay 
with the Nijjkin on a certain day, and make it a 
point to be there ready to embark. This was mistake 
No. 6. 

AVe at once proceeded to pack our trophies for 
transportation, and were materially assisted by Mr. 
Herbert, who furnished three large packing boxes 
into which we packed our heads, headskins, tent and 
other large articles which we would not need on the 
voyage home. 



AT PILLEY'S ISLAND AGAIN. 203 

WE WANT TO GO HOME. 

The next question to disturb our slumbers was, 
when would we get a vessel going south? The 
steamer Avalon, a large English vessel (See cut, page 
25) known as a tramp belonging to the Red Cross 
Line, commanded by Capt. E. M. Cox, was loading- 
pyrites for Boston. The steamer Silvia, upon which 
we expected to sail for New York, was looked for 
daily; but inasmuch as she could not load till the 
Avalon left her dock, we began at once to open 
negotiations with Capt. Cox to land us in Boston on 
our home trip, for which point he expected to sail 
direct not later than Tuesday, the thirteenth, which 
would get us home at least five days ahead of the Silvia. 

Friday, November 9th. Thermometer 32; clear and 
pleasant. This was a lovely day. Spent a very pleas- 
ant evening with Capt. Cox at Mr. Herbert's in com- 
pany with friends of the family, playing Nap and lis- 
tening to fine music rendered by Mr. Herbert and his 
estimable wife and daughter. Finished packing our 
trophies, and received a final answer from Capt. Cox, 
who agreed to take us ; but as he was not allowed to 
provide accommodations for passengers, he said it 
would be necessary for us to ship as seamen at one 
shilling a day, and pay one dollar a day each for our 
board, with the verbal understanding that we should 



204 



CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 



desert the ship at Boston. Our four days' wait at 
Pilley s Island were pleasantly spent, and would have 
been much more enjoyable had it not been for 

MISTAKE NO. 7. 

We had left our trunks at St. John's which con- 
tained our travelling clothes, as well as some presents 
for the loved ones at home. However, we had pre- 
pared a letter of instructions to one of our many new- 
made friends at St. John's, Mr. J. B. Howson, Esq., 
to forward our baggage. While in our quandary, on 
the eleventh the Silvia steamed in. 




THE SILVIA WAITING IN PILLEY S ISLAND HARBOR. 



THE VOYAGE HOME. 205 

On the 12th our cases — one containing five pairs of 
antlers and five headskins, directed to that master 
of his profession, Mr. A. H. Wood, taxidermist, of 
Painted Post, N. Y.; one to J. W. Davis, Burlington, 
N. J., and the third to the writer at Lancaster, Pa., 
were stowed away in the hold of the great steel 
steamer, together with 3,000 tons of pyrites ore; the 
hatches were clamped down, and on Tuesday morn- 
ing, just as we were about to hoist anchor, the coast 
steamer Virginia Lake hove in sight, bound for St. 
John's. Things were beginning to be interesting. It 
would require three days to load the Silvia (perhaps 
four), and three days for the Virginia Lake to reach 
St. John's. Mr. Kepler, always magnanimous, and 
full of ways and means as Newfoundland is of 
caribou, ptarmigan and codfish, said as he stood upon 
the dock: "Well, boys, though we have made ar- 
rangements for having our baggage forwarded to New 
York, your time at home is more valuable than mine; 
you have business to look after, I have none; I will 
go on the Virginia Lake to St. John's, and be ready 
for the Silvia when she comes, and we will be sure 
nothing will happen to our baggage. I will not re- 
port for duty on the Avalon, then I need not desert 
at Boston." We exchanged bon-voyage, and both 
ships sailed out of the harbor at the same time — he 



200 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

going south and we north, through the Straits of 
Belle Isle, along the shores of Labrador, which were 
covered with snow, and completely around the west 
coast of Newfoundland, through the Gulf of St. LaAV- 




COAST OF LABRADOR AS SEEN FROM SHIP IN STRAITS OF 
BELLE ISLE OPPOSITE AMOUR'S POINT. 



rence, past Cape Breton Island, across the Bay of 
Fundy, and down to Boston, where we arrived at 8 
P. M., Monday, November 19th, 1894. The rest of 
the journey home was, of course, an e very-day affair; 
Mr. Kepler had a pleasant voyage, arriving four days 
later. 



HABITS OF THE CARIBOU. 207 

THE CARIBOU AND HIS HABITS. 

Though the preceding pages have not been written 
from the standpoint either of historian or naturalist, 
it may not be considered amiss to note in detail some 
of the habits of the noble game which formed the 
principal subject of the work, and led the author and 
his friends to visit the distant island. 

The North American Caribou, Rangifer Tarandus, 
Is the only member of the deer family whose females 
have horns. This peculiarity has led to the impres- 
sion with many that all doe caribou possess these ap- 
pendages, which is far from being correct — the fact 
being that such are the exceptions, not the rule. 
While we saw during our stay in the White Hills 
over nine hundred of these noble animals by actual 
count, we were at one time fearful that all would not 
get a specimen of the female bearing horns. Like the 
stags, they shed their horns once a year, though much 
later in the season. Their antlers are usually quite 
regular, and about the same size in all specimens. 
The caribou is powerfully built, with deep broad 
shoulders, short neck, short clean large-boned legs 
and broad feet. In the late fall and winter they are 
almost white, with bluish spots on the sides which 
give them a dappled gray appearance. The hair is 
finer, more flexible and less brittle than that of any 



208 CAKIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

other member of the deer family, and beneath the 
hair is a thick mat of fur. Beautiful and serviceable 
robes are made of the skins. 

The woodland caribou are very susceptible to do- 
mestication, and make a valuable substitute for dogs 
in drawing loads over the ice and snow. The writer 
saw a yearling on board the steamer Virginia Lake 
which had been captured in Red Indian Lake but 
ten days previous. It was perfectly tame and docile, 
and took food from the hand without a sign of 
timidity. 

These deer when frightened seldom jump or run, 
but go off at a lively gallop until they think them- 
selves out of harm's way, when they drop into a fast 
trot; but soon stop, turn half round, presenting a 
broadside to the point from which they were fright- 
ened, and in a minute or two "about face" and 
present the other side. If not entirely satisfied as to 
the cause of their alarm they will often slowly re- 
trace their steps — led usually by a barren doe — and 
thereby get themselves into trouble. 

Where a marsh is of considerable width, through 
which several trails pass, and the hunter's conven- 
ience makes it desirable that the deer take a par- 
ticular path, all that is necessary is to tie a hand- 
kerchief or some similar object to the end of a stick 



HABITS OF THE CARIBOU. 209 

and place it near the junction of the "leads." When 
the herd comes along, the leader soon discovers the 
flag and gives the alarm, they all line themselves up, 
take a good look at the mysterious fluttering object, 
and take the road which leads to danger. 

Their senses of smell and hearing are very acute, 
but their vision seems defective in distinguishing ob- 
jects. If a man in a dead-grass colored suit stands, 
perfectly still in the open marsh, they will walk 
Close up to him before (apparently) they are able to 
distinguish him from a stump or some other object. 
While they invariably prefer to travel over the open 
marsh or barrens, when wounded they immediately 
run for cover; and once within a Newfoundland 
thicket, the chances are nine in ten they cannot be 
found. 

They are very tenacious of life, and the . missile 
must strike either in or close to the spine or heart, or 
through both shoulders, as otherwise they are ;likely> 
to get away. The calf whose head is shown on cover 
ran three hundred yards after receiving a 40-65 ball, 
through the body just back of the heart. 

Here we must leave the caribou to the further ac- 
quaintance of those whose fancy leads them in pur- 
suit of the nobler game of our continent. The heads 
of the principal specimens mentioned in our record 



210 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

look down upon us from the walls of our home, re- 
newing daily the pleasure we found in the pursuit. 
Go and do likewise. 

THE MICMAC INDIANS. 

As reference has been made in the preceding chap- 
ters to the Micmacs of Newfoundland, a few words 
about them may not be out of place, as they are the 
only Indian inhabitants. They belong to the eastern 
branch of the Algonquin family, representatives of 
which are also found in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick 
and Lower Canada, Some thirty families of them 
are located around Hall's Bay, and compose about all 
on the island. They live in houses like the white men, 
speak a little broken English, cultivate small patches 
of ground, and eke out a livelihood by fishing and 
hunting. They are all Roman Catholics, and in front 
of their cemetery on the north shore of Hall's Bay the 
cross and a totem-pole stand side b} 7 side, and are 
guarded with jealous care. Many of these people are 
afflicted with tuberculosis of the throat and lungs, from 
which cause there are a number of deaths every year. 
Notwithstanding his attempts at civilized life, this 
member of the aboriginal race is moving towards the 
extinction which seems to be the fate of the red man 
in every portion of the new world. 



NEWFOUNDLAND'S FUTURE. 211 

CONCLUSION. 

And now, about to lay down the pen, as we glance 
backward by way of farewell to the little book, there 
crowd upon us pleasant reminiscences of the people 
among whom we spent those autumn days, so full of 
pleasure and of incident. We came among them 
strangers, we left them friends; should we not be 
tempted back again by the recollection of this visit, 
at least the friendships formed will not be suffered to 
lapse, if the islanders reciprocate our feeling toward 
them, as we have every reason to expect. In this 
feeling is an element of sympathy which we trust 
may awaken the same in the heart of the reader. 
These people of the north have for decades been 
making a heroic struggle not only against nature's 
forces, but against the colder and more cruel hand of 
oppression, moved by soulless greed; and last and 
worst, against the corruption among themselves in- 
duced by the example set them in their treatment by 
the mother country. But the corruptionists are a 
small minority ; the honest masses will slough them 
off, and we feel safe in predicting for them a brighter 
future. 

What are the grounds of our belief? First, the 
seemingly inexhaustible bounty of nature in the 
waters surrounding them, the undeveloped riches of 



212 CARIBOU SHOOTING IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 

soil and mine, the elastic spirit shown wherever the 
smallest opportunity is given for improvement, un- 
daunted by repeated applications of the English '-wet 
blanket," and last and most promising, the almost 
universal desire for free institutions. 

Will the deliverance come in the form of annexa- 
tion to the great American Republic? Such is their 
hope, and also that of the writer. He may as well 
confess here that a confederation of American states 
from Greenland over to Behring Straits, and south- 
ward to Cape Horn, would be none too large for his 
ideal ; but he cannot hope te see that, since the years 
of Methuselah are no longer vouchsafed to man. But 
he is not so sure that he may not hold out long 
enough to hunt the caribou in the American State of 
Newfoundland. 

Whether we shall see it or no, let our last word in 
taking leave of the reader express once more the hope 
that instead of a European dependency, the twentieth 
century may early greet our friends of Newfoundland 
as in the fullest sense American citizens. 




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